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- Donny -

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Posts posted by - Donny -


  1. $100 is a bit steep if its already got the housings removed, a quick visual inspection only takes 5 or 10 minutes and will give you a good indication of whats wrong and how much it will cost to fix.

    i run Forced Motorworx in dandenong and we rebuild sr20 and rb25 engines gearboxes and turbos, if you like, bring the box down and ill have a quick look for you and wont cost you anything


  2. You guys think way to much it's simple. If your a tight *milkshake* and just want to think you made an effort on a cooling upgrade and like shinny shit in the bay then get an eBay cheap. If you want to spend a bit more and have that factory look get gktech copper. If you want to spend a bit more and have a top quality product get a koyo.

    but ill have you know copper radiators art new you people are freaking out thinking copper is no good and f**ks up with water. copper is a better conductor than aluminum if you wanted to use the best material for cooling you would use copper, how ever heavier and uglier and more expensive raw materials.


  3. We charge 440 including gst for clutch install and that includes fresh martini racing gear oil and machining the flywheel it's hardly expensive we only charge around 90 per hour most workshop will charge well over 120 an hour these days as mechanical workshops have a f**k tone of over heads to pay for.

     

    and yeah installing fmic can be a massive pain in the ass and very time consuming


  4. The circle is on the back of 4th, you have those 2 half circle hardened steel pieces and then a pissa little circle that holds those 2 together. That's the problem do a descent tax weld against the dick ie circle and the 2 half circle clips on both sides this will stop it from coming off but if you ever need to remove it your going to have to break or grind it off.

    reverse being f**ked is pretty common, there a constant mesh gearbox always spinning just due to tightness and friction it pays to double clutch into reverse or really hold the clutch for a bit but quick shifts into reverse kills Em.

    you will be surprised I have about 40 or so stripped down 5 speeds tones of spare good parts from various broken boxes.....no good reverse gears or baulk rings.


  5. na there in Mon bulk but there are 2 dealers in dandenong.

    basically brett the owner has a close relation ship with the owners of neo tech in Korea.

    they partnered up and had neo tech build there bodies, how ever all the red and tech is in there dampers which are all in house custom valved by brett and Chris from shock works.

    unreal coil overs and I didn't know what good coil overs felt like to ill I drov ed with them.

    They only have the one series cause its a good all rounder coil over.

    Check them out on Facebook brett is very knowledgeable and sort after amongst a lot of oem manufactures and he gets flown all over the world to develop shocks for race teams and big companies


  6. its not hard for them to machine the oil pump onto another block once they know the height, simply bolt the new pump onto the motor you want to use, measure the height difference and thats how much they need to take off then give it to your machinist and tell them they have to machine this much off it and should be fine if you get all your measurments correct.


  7. Stop calling them red tops and black tops makes it so confusing cause most people call a black top a later model S13 sr20 which is not what you need.

    There is non vtc sr20 (all s13's) and there is vtc sr20's (s14 and s15).

    you can swap heads but it's a pain I the ass as some oil galleries for chain tension and vtc feed are in different spots.

    get another s14 or s15 head.


  8. Just try bolting one down and feeling inside the bore where they join, if you feel a lip it doesn't go on that one, if it feels good then it might go on that one but you will still have to go over all of them. Once you think you have them right chuck a cam in with no rockers and see if the cam rotates nicely when there torqued down. If it's tight and grabs then it's the wrong combo so try again.

    It's doable can take 30mins could take you 2 hours.


  9. Well its easy to determine intake from exhaust as they all have an arrow on them which is to face forward.

    The 2 back backs are easy cause there the big chunky ones for the oil squirter banjo. If it's a vtc head the the front intake one is the other chunky intake one that has one flat machined surface on it, the rest of them your going to have to mix and match to try and get right.


  10. Just put Em all in not much you can do about it unless you want to get technical and shim it correctly for hydraulics but it will be something you need to just take to someone to do with the right equipment.

    As for the cam caps the factory markings mean noyhing, unless someone has marked them before they took them off then your gonna have a bad time


  11. Big fist I'm not sure about the power tune ones I haven't seen them to be honest but if there sticking by there product then should be good as I highly doubt they would put there name behind a shonky product.

    and yes deutschwerks is about the only side feed we sell these days, I wouldn't call them "drilled" injectors though. we did the five 0's for a while they went to bad and price was cheap but have seen a few fail also not sure what o rings they use but e85 used to eat Em to bits, I'm not a big fan of modified injectors because I have seen them fail and kill motors as above has mentioned we had a fresh motor pop a hole in a piston and dig a hole in the cylinder a few months ago on a run in tune with only about 14 psi.

    and circuit sports being circuit sports which as most of you would know is an alibaba reseller would be cheap China crap and will most likely play up and kill a motor.

    and a baller is like a high roller someone who throws around cash, which I got from your comment " I bought an s15 for a track hack" indicating your not afraid to spend coin.

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