Jump to content

theliub

Newbie
  • Content count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About theliub

  • Rank
    Newbie

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  • Gender
    Male
  • Car Type
    Nissan Silvia
  • Car Model
    S13
  • Occupation
    pharmer
  1. Where did you get the IACV plastic screw from? Osaka Imports in Knox said they had one for me, but they thought I meant the metal one haha. They don't fit. Still on the search.
  2. ^ Will give it a go once I acquire a multimeter that I can trust lol. TBH I have a feeling that I fried multiple things, which is weird because I specifically aimed away from the alternator and dizzy. Disconnecting the IACV plug and loosening the screw seems to work temporarily . Now idling constantly at 1k rpm.
  3. getting a new idle adjustment screw tmr. Not because I think it will magically solve it all, but because the plastic head is absolutely stuffed. I'm leaning more towards the afm being the problem than the tps. When I disconnect the TPS there is no change. When I disconnect the AFM there is change for the better. Or should I be reversing my logic and changing the TPS over the AFM. I really do wish it was the TPS as they're so much cheaper to get lol
  4. ^^^ is my cold start = iacv? or is there something I'm missing haha ^^ I was considering getting the knock sensor out haha. Changed my starter recently - once you remove the starter the knock sensor is right there in front of you if you're under the car. Weird how your problem kicks in when it's warm and mine is reverse. ^ I recalibrated my TPS a few months ago to 0.45v. My digi multimeter broke though so I have had to resort to the analogue one. It seems a bit off, (reads ~0.55v idle), but when I give it throttle the voltage jumps around and goes spastic for a bit? Could be a dodgy multimeter so I'll try with a digital one when I get one. And yeah I've adjusted my idle but not the way that the thread says to do it. Might give that one a go when I get a new idle screw (my plastic one is shagged) ALSO!@$: The ECU throws 55 (nothing wrong). When I unclip the AFM when running, the car barely idles (dies > comes back to 500 rpm > dies etc etc). BUT!!! when I give it throttle, the car doesn't sound like it's dying. It sounds like I'm giving it life, instead of having the AFM plugged in and the car sounding like dying when the throttle is pressed
  5. ^ it's already screwed all the way in Ran some intake cleaner through it as well and nothing. Used to idle at 800 perfectly once warmed up. sigh
  6. ^ hahaha. Very true. It's a problem, but it's not a problem enough that I can't live with it. At the very least I want to fix that high idle so i save some coin -.-
  7. Absolutely stumped on this one, and have been for the past 2 weeks. All began after a rash decision to wash the engine bay at a car wash place. with high pressure. and with no plastic bags. bad idea. was going to let the bay dry for a bit, but someone needed a jump start so I started up the car and helped them out. nek minnut I notice an immediate high idle (1600rpm). I assumed it was just temporary so I drove it around for a good 10 minutes and it still doesn't drop. A few days later on a cold night, when I started up the car and gave it some gas it took a good 0.5s~1s until it revved. Goes like this: press throttle > idle drops > car feels like it's choking > comes back to life > surges to however much gas I gave it Checked everywhere from vacuum leaks and split vac lines. Found two split lines. Replaced. No change. Took off the dizzy cap expecting water. No water. Terminals were shagged with carbon. Cleaned it up, put it back on. No change. Gave up - decided to at least fix the idle so I could save myself some petrol money. Ran a full can of foaming intake cleaner through the tb, iacv, brake vac line, and another vac line. Car idles extremely smooth now. Other than, that no change. Changed spark plugs. No change. Disconnected coolant temp sensor. No change. OTHER THINGS TO MENTION: Only does it on starts when the engine isn't warm already. Once the car is warm it's all good. Had a walbro 255 and new fuel filter put in a few months ago. IACV screw is all the way down. I'm suspecting the AFM, alternator, and TPS, but I really don't want to buy all three only to find out that it was only one, or even none were the problem. Suggestions appreciated! TL;DR > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GrVC_Pn04E <
  8. ^ sadly the corolla would probably munch it. I've always had a hunch that compression might be down, but never really got it tested in fear of what I might find
  9. ^ first thing that I checked and adjusted when I bought the car haha. it's nice and snug. So over the last couple of weeks it seems to have improved by much more. Not sure which one did it, but heres the list of what I've done. -nulon foaming intake cleaner -engine started to run on 3 cylinders :| -found out that the second cylinder injector was screwy and the spark plug was split -replaced fuel filter with z202, replaced injector, replaced spark plug -cleaned and indexed all four spark plugs
  10. haha I'm the slow club by default! Semi-cleaned the iacv last night and it properly idles now (from 1.4k rpms to 800). Pulled heaps better, even with 3 people in the car. Somehow it doesn't pull much stronger with just two though lol. Bought some nulon foaming intake cleaner. I think it's just seafoam but not too sure. Hopefully this does the trick as well. Will try replacing the fuel filter and giving the cat a nice one-two if this doesn't work
  11. cheers. will give that a shot. i know they aren't a fast car but the way mine pulls right now feels like it would barely make 70kw atw :|
  12. I've had my na manual s13 for a while and it's really got me stuck in a rut. This thing can barely pull and I have no clue why. Things I have done in attempt to fix it: -new plugs (BKR6E-11) = no effect -penrite 10w-40 engine oil = no effect -found some split vac lines and fixed em = no effect -found hole in intake after afm + sealed it = no effect -readjusted tps to 0.45v from original 0.8 = a bit better -advanced timing to 18degrees + 98RON = better pull but still :| -2.5" catback = rpms climb a tad faster but still slow -new air filter + cleaned afm + cleaned tb = no effect -was told to try disconnecting o2 sensor = ran extremely slow So I'm now at the point where I have a list of other things to do, but would rather not do them if they wouldn't improve anything. -new o2 sensor -new knock sensor -new cat -new fuel filter (though the current was replaced a year or two ago) -other suggestions?? Another thing to note is that the idle doesn't drop unless the engine starts to really heat up. Otherwise it stays at 1.4k rpm for entire trips at times. I have a feeling that the car is almost permanently running on a cold start map thus ruining performance? I have run out of ideas on how to solve this though. TL:DR na sr20 silvia is sluggish. pls lend me your knowledge. if else fails I'll just take it to specialist to diagnose. & inb4 get a turbo
  13. smashed panel repair cost?

    I've come across at least a million unfinished threads so I'm just going to finish it. These are the results: before: after: For those interested, the shop is called Budget Body Works and is located in moorabin. Was more than happy with the results, only needs a buff and it's pretty much set. I will not publicly disclose the cost, but I'll have you know it was a total mind-blow of a bargain. PM for more details if you want
  14. smashed panel repair cost?

    Just to follow up, I've got the car booked in at a place in moorabin. The guy said he could do it for a very low price, so being the stingy uni student that I am, I simply couldn't refuse. He said that the panel could not be pushed out whilst retaining the strength of the metal. Was told welding and possibly grinding would be required to fix it. offered a layer of paint to get the car up for roadworthy. It seems a bit too good to be true, and I have a feeling that I might regret cheaping out on a big repair, but I'll just have to see and hope for the best. He did guarantee that his fix would get it up to spec for roadworthy, so that pleases me. Will post results when done if anyone is interested.
×