Jump to content

Galvanic

Standard Member
  • Content count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Galvanic

  1. Check out Driving sports on facebook if you're in NSW. They host skid pan days so lots of space to drift on a wet skid pan. You'll need to join a club (may as well join them for better event prices) and a cams L2S license.
  2. Hey all, I swapped out my standard head gasket about a year ago with a Cometic MLS head gasket and also use ARP head studs and all was good I went to one track day and the whole day and I had no problems, then I went to another and I came off track once during the day and it was quite bumpy (not sure if related). The water temp started getting hot on track which is not really normal but the thing is it would not even cool down when i did cool down laps so i just called it and day and drove home about an hour later but on the way home just cruising on the highway I saw that the water temp gauge was maxed out and the cars temp gauge was maxed as well (oil temp was still 70 due to my oil cooler i assume) so i pulled over strait away and as soon as i did the engine light came on and then i shut the car down. (error code was cooling fan circuit) Coolant was overflowing out of the overflow bottle so i just waited for it too cool, I drove to the servo and topped up the water and the temp was fine again. The next track day it started getting hot again towards the end on the day so im assuming i have a leaking head gasket. Symptoms: - Car starts getting hotter and hotter when driving hard for extended periods - I can see something in the coolant, tiny brown/black blobs and it is very minimal I have to really look hard to find them - Some oil? under the radiator cap - When i go for a drive and park the car a few moments later the overflow tank will start to bubble (1 bubble per second) - When i removed the cam cover I saw some coolant near the spark plug holes on the head - I've re torqued the head studs but problem still seems to be there - I've switch the radiator cap to another 0.13 bar - I did notice when draining the cooland the drain plug was not on very tight, still tight enough that I needed a spanner to loosen it but no force need to open it, could air have been getting into the system here? When I drained the coolant and oil they both seem normal, the oil is black and coolant is green and I cant really see anything in it so now I don't know if the head gasket is fine but maybe I have another problem Any input would be great
  3. S15 leaky head gasket? Help please

    Got the S15 back from the tuner and it's still alive and well! Might be down on power a bit but the tuner said the tires I had on are no good on the dyno as they might be slipping, on the road it feels like it has about the same amount of power I'm very happy with the result I'm glad I put the head back on just to see what would happen. Now time to take it drifting on the 27th and see how she holds up
  4. S15 leaky head gasket? Help please

    Ok so I put it all back together. I had the weirdest problem when I tried to start it. It would idle as if it was running on 2 cylinders and run lean and then die but if i unplugged the MAF it would idle smooth but at like 2000 rpm at the right AFR. Anyways its all up and running now, it seems to be running a bit hotter than normal, it normally ran at 68° but now it running at 75° but at least its steady which i think is good. So far all the problems seem to be gone, no more boiling into the overflow tank after a drive. I feel like I should just run 16psi low boost for now instead of my 22psi high boost.
  5. S15 leaky head gasket? Help please

    Here are a few more pics, head has been cleaned but the block has not and you can see where the leak was happening. This is what I took the other day, head is back on and the intake manifold is back on. Ill take a pic on the gasket in daylight but I think i can see the trails to the water galleries
  6. S15 leaky head gasket? Help please

    From what I saw the bores where fine with no marks on the cylinder walls, I’ve been told by a few ppl that the block is no good and the head is probably damaged as well so they recommended I put in a used motor. Seeing as how that car ran before in theory it should run again right? I might still be able to get some more km’s out of it, it not like I have much to lose trying to see if it will still run. Yeah you’re right that’s why I’m thinking I had the cooling system being pressurized The pitting on the sleeve and block must have been causing the cooling system to be pressurized. Yeah I don’t think I’ll ever use Cometic again, I’ve always hear good things about them though. I’ve installed a standard gasket that I had to see if the car will run again. Ill post some overall pics tonight when I get home but yeah it’s not a raised section of carbon it’s actually pitting so it lower than the deck.
  7. S15 leaky head gasket? Help please

    I think I found my problem, all of the cylinder pretty much look like this I might have to put it all back together and find out what is causing this but ill have a chat to my tuner
  8. Trolley Jack Lift Pad

    Just ordered a 2-pack from your website
  9. S13 problem hitting boost

    When my car did that it was because the coil packs where dying. Some new splitfires fixed it right up I'm pretty sure the third port on the boost solenoid is to vent the bled air
  10. Just got my Velo seat (GP90 standard) and it seems to have a wide base (420mm), current bucket seat is like 385. I tried to mount it to my current Bride N045VL rails they are 395mm between side mounts I'm thinking of getting some FG rails to get it to work but on the website they specify 395mm wide as well, has anyone tried this Velo and FG rail combo yet? Im not sure but looking at the rails online i should be able to flip to brackets around to make the space wider, the seat might be offset though? Does anyone have FG rails that they could measure to see if it would work
  11. Velo seat into a S15 what rails

    Maybe I should just try and bend my current ones, I don't think it should affect the rails if i do that. The rails look like this:
  12. S15 diff swap bolts

    I got a used diff for my S15 with a 4.36 diff ratio (ive got a rb25 gearbox) and Nismo centre When i installed the diff I noticed that the mounting holes near the ABS sensor are smaller and I cant use my S15 bushings and bolts I believe that S13's have the smaller holes on the housing, are there any other models? On the diffs with the smaller holes are there any bushing/washers/spacers required or dose it bolt hard up against the body? I could potentially use the current bolts with some washers but it would be nice if i could use the correct gear.
  13. S15 diff swap bolts

    Thanks for the info, the rear hat is fine as it bolted strait in and I just used some washers to space the diff the same that the original one was spaced and that meant that I could use my old bolts Did some figure 8's to run it in and it's quite noisy at low speeds even with the clutch in, it just sounds and feels loose. I also noticed a low pitched hum coming from the diff when driving strait. Getting sideways seem to be a bit more predictable now but yet to fully try it out
  14. [STOLEN] Black 200SX S14 Zenki

    That sucks man, did you have an alarm installed?
  15. www.autotechnik.com.au for RPF1's www.rimtuck.com for fitment
  16. Quick question

    I did turbo, cams, 740cc injectors and a Z32 afm and drove to the tuner after just fine, car sounded no different but i have Nistune, not sure if that matters though. Just ask your tuner?
  17. Did my first tune with the ART28SS2 and got 231rwkw, would not get to 20psi boost at all even with a boost controller, 400 cell catco 3" hiflow ceramic and a RM01 fujitsubo exhaust. I changed to a 100 cell metal cat and a custom 3" with a xforce muffler, hi boost was now stable but still laggy. Actuator was only sitting around 12-13psi without a boost controller. Changed to a 18psi turbosmart actuator and just by pulling on the rods i could tell a difference, the stock actuator was about 45 pound to open and the TS one was about 75 pound to open, i believe this help a little bit with response from about 4800 to now about 4500 to full boost. Here is my current setup Make and model: Nissan Silvia S15 Size of engine: 2.0T with VCT Modifications to the car: 3" TBE, 100 cell metal cat, KLS front mount, ARP headstuds, 1.2 MLS HG, 740cc Nismo, Nistune, RB25 gearbox with 4.1 diff, Methanol injection, Z32 AFM, Walbro 255, BC valve springs, turbosmart actuator 18psi springs. Type of turbo: ATR28SS2 Trim of turbo:/ Rear Exhaust housing:64 When does vehicle begin boost: 3400 When does vehicle reach full boost and what PSI: 4500 @ 21psi Does the vehicle have Cams? if so; What brand: Brain Crower What lift/duration etc: 12.06mm 264/264 Max power achieve at what boost: 261.8rwkw @ 20psi - 238rwkw @ 16psi When i was doing a boost leak test i was loosing air from the back of the turbo housing, i was told not to worry about that too much Next on the upgrade list down the track will be new manifold, Tomei dump pipe, new power wire to the fuel pump, FPR and seal the turbo again so its not leaking from the housing. My tuner kept the boost at 20psi, thought he would have tried to get as high as possible but he did not recommend more boost and he said it will be unreliable and my 740's are at 90% duty cycle which was weird so he said the fuel pump might need better power source. Overall its a beast on the track as i can keep the revs high, its a bit awkward on the street but real fast if you don't care about speeding
  18. Make and model: Nissan Silvia S15 Size of engine: 2.0T Modifications to the car: 3" TBE, 100 cell metal cat, KLS front mount, ARP headstuds, 1.2 MLS HG, 740cc Nismo, Nistune, RB25 gearbox with 4.1 diff, Methanol injection, Z32 AFM, Walbro 255, BC valve springs, turbosmart actuator 18psi springs. Type of turbo: ATR28SS2 Trim of turbo:/ Rear Exhaust housing:64 When does vehicle begin boost: 3400 When does vehicle reach full boost and what PSI: 4500 @ 21psi Does the vehicle have Cams? if so; What brand: Brain Crower What lift/duration etc: 12.06mm 264/264 Max power achieve at what boost: 261.8rwkw @ 20psi - 238rwkw @ 16psi
  19. Same here I just used a 90° silicone elbow on my low mount ATR28SS2 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4PLY-Silicone-90-Degree-Elbow-Connector-Joiner-Turbo-Hose-Pipe-50mm-2-/271912832922? For the 3" intake side i used a 60° pipe and a 60° silicone elbow surprisingly i was still able to use my old intake enclosure
  20. Did you find out what the problem was/is? Is your gearbox still working?
  21. Hi All, I've got a Power tune gearbox adaptor kit that I will be installing later on this year into my S15 but I don't have the install guide I'm sure it will be a strait forward install but ill probably install it incorrectly any ways and im guessing the install guide has some good tips So if anyone can share the install guide with me it would be greatly appreciated.
  22. Hope someone can help me, the tuner asked me if I installed a spigot bearing but I'm pretty sure I didn't install a new bearing. I just installed the spacer then flywheel. Was I meant to install a spigot bearing? I didn't get one with the kit. Tuner said the gearbox is rattling a bit and that might be the problem.
  23. I recently installed a methanol injection kit in my S15 I went to unique autosports the other day to get a quote to get some piping welded and i told im that ill be running methanol in my car, he told me he sold methanol for cheap so i bought a 20L drum for mixing Today i wanted the mix it but when i looked at it it appeared to have oil floating on the top and white blobs through the methanol, is this normal? its yellow in color I shook the drum to see what would happen, there is still oil on top but the methanol is now murky I've read that i should not put methanol though the injection system if it has anything mixed in The methanol is made by ET race fuels in a orange drum Can anyone shed some light on this?
  24. Hoping someone can help me out... A couple of weeks ago my S15 stopped locking and unlocking with the car remote, i suspected that it was the motor that got installed when i did my alarm 3/4 years ago. I pulled the door trim off and and the motor in the door did not sound well. I went to Jaycar and got a new slave motor as the one in the door only had two wires running to it and a master motor has four wires (this could be a problem but not sure) The car will now lock but not unlock. I switched the cables around on the motor and it will unlock when i lock the car meaning the motor works both ways. I can lock/unlock the car with a key. When i use the lock/unlock button inside the car it only locks just like with the remote. Any suggestions? Ill take the car in to the install place but wanted to see if anyone could help as it is inconvenient for me to take it in.
×