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Posts posted by B00sted180

  1. I bought one of these and then put a hose from the outlet to the actuator and with the ebc in the middle. With the boost sensor I tapped it in between the turbo outlet and the ebc. I also have a separate boost gauge which is connected to the fpr but did end up with a hole in the hose which coursed all sorts of problems for me. Advisable to avoid using the fpr.



  2. Contemplating 300+ rwkw on unopened sr. That's what the title says?

    All I wrote was the power figure I made on a stock motor and said that sr's are tuff little fukers . Don't remember writing it was any good or functionality was any good or even reliable . Just a simple reply from weeks ago, now it's an event.


    Hey man not sure where this came from. If you're referring to my post I'd like to make it clear I was simply replying to Tom's post. If you and Stuss are having an argument yous might want to take it to PM and sort it out between the two of yous. Doesn't seem like anyone else here has bothered joining the band wagon against your comments.

  3. Don't make the same mistake as me. I have 16" wheels and found it very hard finding tires I wanted for them. I finally found a set for the rear but extremely limited on brands so will see how they hold up. If they don't hold up I'll be going 17" as the variety of tire sizes is much better.

  4. It consist of harsh degreases that end up reducing the shear strength of the oil. Thats pretty much the whole idea of an engine flush to thin out and remove the old oil but you no longer have the protection (or its dramatilicly reduced) on bearing surfaces. Also there is the possibility that sludge can move around get picked up and block an oil gallery somewhere.

    I would no longer use it on engine that are pushed hard as bearing life is really important to me.

    Every oil change is excessive and if you read the bottle idle only no load! I wonder why :o


    Every 10,000km's I have a bottle of oil flush put into the old oil prior to being emptied and replaced for new oil. The engine is at running temperature prior to the flush going in and the engine is only idled for a small time specified on the back of the bottle. I shouldn't have any problems with sludge since I use flush on a regular basis and shouldn't have too many problems with the wearing of bearing surfaces since the engine is only ran for a small period of time at no load.

  5. engine flush is a bit of a gamble! Honestly I regret using it in my engines in the past. I think a bottle of cheap gtx for about $10 is a better option when trying to clean an engine out :)


    Really why is that? I always use a bottle of engine flush every time I get new oil.

  6. As Bling said. From the second pic it looks like the sludge is only on the bottom on the pan and not through the rest of the engine. Give the pan a thorough clean with degreaser then put new oil in with a bottle of engine flush. Let the engine run and clean any crap that might be sitting in the engine then replace the oil with new oil.

  7. R32, Z32, R33 (Excluding GTR), R34 (Excluding GTR) all have the same rear rotors and all R32, Z32, R33, R34 Sumitomo calipers are all the same except Z32 went from alloy to cast from 1992.5 onwards. Might make finding what your after a little easier.


    I have a set of rear calipers and rotors if you're interested. PM me if you're interested.

  8. No disco is a bigger turbo and will give you more power than a t28 and have a tiny bit more lag, but not noticible ( compared to the lag difference og a GTRS, T518z ect)

    ie on stock s14 motor ( no tuen just fmic, exhaust) both on 1bar the t28 made 180kw, the disco made 198. With tune, z32, cams and more boost mates made about 230 from memory. All on the same dyno. where as a t28 will be running out of puff nudging 200 odd


    Hmmm alright I might get one if thats the case.


    I really dont want to go over 230kw, I still want a safe tune and keep the internals and gearbox happy.


    I haven't even looked into building my bottom end yet even when looking at 250kw (currently 220) however even though my gearbox appears to be holding together I have no idea for how much longer. While you still have your SR box that'll always be the weakest link. I consider my gearbox as like a fuse to the remainder of my engine, it'll blow before the engine experiences too much stress.

  9. I built my SR20 to be responsive but looking at higher power goals then you. Best way to approach a build I believe is select your goal then select the turbo to achieve that goal then add everything else to support that turbo. GT2860 would work well, I went a Precision 5130 as is have little difference in response but higher power gains. Chuck some 740cc injectors in that way you have room to play with later and a Z32 AFM. That should see you to your goal.

  10. ^ they're ok.. doesn't hold boost too well and doesn't have the ability to run in reverse when you want to bleed the top port of an external gate.


    I don't think I'll be doing anymore then the low 20 psi range and I'm staying internal gate so hopefully it fits my needs. Maybe it's a option for the op.