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B00sted180

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Posts posted by B00sted180


  1. My car hides in the shed 99% of the time so doesn't get the opportunity to get defected. However when I do get it out it often results in a defect.

    Check out this site, it shows what your height and track can be as a minimum. https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/15261/Passenger-Car-Track-list-2.15.pdf

    Unfortunately cops can defect you for suspicion and have you go to regency to have such defect to be verified to be legal or not. I've been defected for some really stupid shit before. I've even had the inspectors at regency laugh at me when I gave them my defect notice and they read what its been defected for. 

    I know you can drive a defected car between home and places of repair if the car is registered. I believed you could get approval to drive a defected car if its still registered if it's been booked in for a inspection but best double check. 


  2. Hey mate, good to see you're still on here also. 

    I've currently got a Nistune. I was going to Jaustech but they have unfortunately closed their doors hence needing to find a new place to go.

    Locally I've got Boostworx, Fours N More and Morpowa. Unsure if anyone else knows of any other places. 

    I've spoken to Simon at Morpowa and I'd like to have him take on my 180 but he doesnt do imports and mainly concentrates on V8s but I'm trying to twist his arm to make an allowance for me.

    Places I've considered that arnt local to me are Japanese Motorsport, Garage 7 and Glynde Garage. 

    Just looking for suggestions and recommendations as I want to only take my car to one workshop and build a positive relationship with them like I had with Jaustech. 


  3. Hi Everyone, 

    Long story short my mechanic I've been with since 2012 are closing their doors. Now needing a new workshop to take on my car.

    I need suggestions on who to consider. My car is a 180sx running a SR20 and need someone who can confidently tune, service and repair it. 

    I'm in the Para Hills region and obviously don't want to travel extensive amounts and would like someone local if possible.

    Hit us up with suggestions and experiences. More discussion the better. 

    Cheers


  4. Hi Everyone,

     

    I'm in need of a new head to replace my current one but the one I looked at has been dismantled and everything thrown into a container. Looking at all the parts it seems it's missing a cam cap and some shims etc.

     

    My question is, is it worth getting this head or move on and find another one. I'm wanting to simply get another head and transplant everything from my current head into the new one. Before anyone asks why, my current head has been machined way too much and has increased the compression too much and preventing me to achieve what I want from the engine.

     

    Cheers


  5. Just a follow up on this problem, I ended up taking it to the mechanic and since I had done nothing to my car since the last tune other then installing the AVCR they reinstalled the last tune. It fixed nothing and there was way too much fuel being put into the engine. I was even asked if I had installed bigger injectors since the last tune, it even baffled the mechanics. They ended up doing a new tune.

     

    I'm glad I took it back to them. When they looked at my previous notes the engine had 200psi compression on all four cylinders and it was worked out to between 10:1/11:1 compression ratio. With the compression ratio so high 23psi of boost was still being squeezed into the engine.

     

    With this new tune they weren't able to go beyond 14psi without some major knocking and when I got the car back it's been suggested to not push it too hard for too long especially under load and ensure to keep the revs high.

     

    It still baffels me on what happened for it to all of a sudden change and have problems. It must have something with the installation of the AVCR but not sure what it could be.


  6. Since my first post I've learned its also the parkers which aren't working along with the dash and rear tail lights. I've finally fixed the problem. I checked all the fuses more than once and even replaced the parker fuse just in case it was mistaken as ok. I unsecured the kick panel fuse box and inspected it to see if there was anything visually wrong with the wires. I removed and reinstalled all relays in all three fuse boxes. I removed all rear globes and front parker and indicator globes and cleaned all the contact points. Visually inspected all wires with the rear lights, parkers/indicators and all the under dash wires. I even removed the indicator stalk and inspected it. They were all the main things I found on the net which solved other peoples problem with the same issue. Only other thing I read which solved the problem for other people was replacing the indicator stalk. I grabbed another stalk, installed it and problem fixed.

     

    Sorry for my rambling but hoping that this might help others fix the same problem if it happens to happen to their car.

     

    Thanks Pmod for you're help, I was stressing out hoping it wasn't internal wire breakage withing the fuse box wires but thought I'd try all these other fixes first before going into the more complex fixes

    • Upvote 1

  7. From what Pmod said I did the following with my conversion.

    • I got conversion lines from GKtech and they had plastic clips and have snapped. Didn't think about ziptieing them but will now.
    • I got a HFM BM57 master cylinder and works great. Heard a lot of people have had problems with them leaking but mine has been fine so far.
    • I made my own handbrake adaptor plate. Google image 'Eagle Adaptor' and you'll find measurements.
    • Replacing the plastic brake pedal bump stop is worth it, I currently have a $1 coin blue tacked on. Surprisingly hasn't failed me yet.

    I'm using my standard booster and got a BMC stopper which made a big difference. It can be a fairly straight forward conversion. I didn't find it too hard other then accidentally using GTR rear hubs when I thought they were GTST and had trouble getting a hard brake pedal but replacing the standard BMC with the BM57 fixed it.


  8. I got the following machine work done on my S13 head.

     

    - Chemical Cleaned

    - Pressure Tested

    - Crack Tested

    - Ported

    - Polished

    - Manifolds Matched

    - Removed Quench Pads

    - Decked

    - Enlarged Valve Ports

     

    Only thing I can suggest is to be careful on how much you have the head faced/decked. I've had too much taken off and currently running at 200psi compression on all cylinders. Worked out to about 10.1:1 ratio. Was running 23psi in it (crazy fun to drive), recently had it retuned to 14psi (not so fun anymore) and was told it's a merical I didn't blow the engine up. It also proved difficult to tune and make any decent power out of it on 98ron without it knocking. Now looking at getting another standard head and have the same work done to it except keep the compression as low as possible so I can run more boost in it again. Just thought I'd share my story so your mindful and don't make the same mistake.


  9. I've tried to simplify my engine bay by minimising vacuum lines on my 180 and have removed the EGR, BOV, Carbon Canister and have the Boost Controller connected to the turbo using a GKTech outlet snout. Only problem I've encounter is that when you get your car defected, vehicle inspection will apparently look for the carbon canister. I personally haven't has any problem with fuel smell.

     

    As Pmod said your easiest solution would be replace the 3 way connector at 'B' and replace it for a 2 way connector. That'll eliminate the EGR and not alter anything else.


  10. Hopefully I've read the diagram correctly. The S14/S15 engine looks to be slightly different to the S13 so hopefully the info I've provided is correct.

     

    'C' isn't required but is connect to your fuel tank. The tank requires to vent to prevent pressure building up in it. The carbon canister filters the fuel tank vapors. Without it your fuel tank will just vent to atmosphere. Nothing wrong with that other then the chance of smell of fuel. If you remove 'B' you could connect 'D' to the throttle body.


  11. Hey all, I've got a leaky tie rod end bushing so I bought myself a new one with bump steer adjustment. Now my question is does it even make sense to adjust bump steer on tie rod end without adjusting ball joint on LCA, or would it actually make things worse?

    Hey all, I've got a leaky tie rod end bushing so I bought myself a new one with bump steer adjustment. Now my question is does it even make sense to adjust bump steer on tie rod end without adjusting ball joint on LCA, or would it actually make things worse?

     

    Sorry it hurt my eyes when I tried reading it.

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