Jump to content


Platinum Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by B00sted180


    I've heard that going 2 guides is a good improvement. Going a rocker arm stopper can help with prevention. Build it into a 9000rpm head. I built my head exactly the same as they have in this thread. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-build-a-9000-rpm-sr20det-head.html Only difference was I didn't go solid lifters, went enlarged valves, removed quench pads and had it ported. I have my engine still on standard rev limit but I find it revs out really quickly and wouldn't mind exploring different rev limits. I have limit bashed my engine on numerous times since having the head built without any problems yet.
  2. looking to lower my s13.

    I have Tein coilovers installed in my car. I haven't had anything else to compare them with but I really like them. Have put standard suspension into my car to clear defects and wasn't until then I realised how amazing they made the car handle.
  3. looking to lower my s13.

    Cut your springs and you'll be excepted into the commodore gang. You'll have endless amounts of fun cruising around with all your new commodore buddies. PS: I have a set of rear cut springs you can have for the cost of postage.
  4. Brake Upgrade for 15" 4 stud.

    Put a little more money into the upgrade and go 5 stud, then go a set of standard 16" Nissan wheels. Their only 1" bigger and keeps a stock look to the car. Alternatively you can stay 4 stud and buy a nice set of aftermarket 15" wheels which have a clean standard look but clear the brakes. Or just do the whole spacer idea with SR wheels.
  5. R32/33 Z32 rear drum assembly, discs and calipers are the same.
  6. S13 rear knuckle is the same as R32/33 Z32. I bolted my R33 brakes straight to my S13 knuckle. Just need to re drill your rotors to match the 4 stud.
  7. 205/60R15 Tyre. Second hand cheapie. Adelaide.

    Go and see Grippy's. They sell second hand tires on the cheap.
  8. How would you feel if this was your car?

    You would be f**ked off in the sense that you're trying to run a business but does that give them the right to move it and potentially damage someone else's car by moving it with a forklift. The owner of the car was in no wrong. He was parked legally on the street.
  9. How would you feel if this was your car?

    I have seen this happen plenty of times in the past but never on a car on the street. I have had cars of my own put onto car trailers using the forks on a tractor. Keeping in mind these cars are wreaks with either plans of restoration or parts. Surprisingly none of my cars which have had it done appear to have any damage from it. I would defiantly not do it to a nice car or one I didn't want to risk damaging. If this happened to me I think I'd go full 'pmod' on them. As in dragging the car? When I fist read it I pictured having the car lifted from the towbar and hanging in the air vertically.
  10. Moving again sale.

    f**k!!! If I payed more attention and realised you were selling a HFM BM57 I wouldn't have had to buy a brand new one.
  11. Wtb s13 parts

    I have a genuine Black Racing Sports steering wheel. Outer layer is worn but would come up nice with new material. Happy to organise postage for you, let us know if your interested.
  12. Hi everyone. I bought myself a HFM BM57 brake master cylinder and it doesn't seem to be operating properly. I removed the 3 yellow plugs from the ports and installed it with no problem. I filled it with brake fluid and attempted to bleed the brakes. The old fluid got pushed through the calipers but no new fluid made it. I removed the cylinder and adjusted the booster arm to ensure it was engaging the cylinder correctly. I dismantled the cylinder and blew air through all the holes and ports with no problem. I reassembled the cylinder and reinstalled it and its still not pushing any fluid to the calipers. It appears that when I push the brakes air is pushed through to the calipers but no fluid and loosing no fluid from the reservoir. I have no idea what's going on, does anyone have any idea what might be the problem?
  13. HFM Brake Master Cylinder Problem

    I bench bled the cylinder and bleeds to the calipers now. Everything installed and bled and now feels a lot more firm while the engine is running. The revs however increase slightly when the brakes are applied and then jump when the brakes are released. What might course this?
  14. HFM Brake Master Cylinder Problem

    I contacted Holford and they said a bench bleed was required. I'll go ahead and do that and hope it works. I'm hearing nothing but bad experiences with the Holford BMC but I have bought it already and will give it a go. Already broke the reservoir as I had to remove it to blow air through the cylinder plus the plug was on the wrong side. Replaced it with the standard S13 one so fingers crossed I can get these brakes working.
  15. Putting an S15 AFM in a 180SX

    Recently got a copy of Nissan Fast and finally got a opportunity to put it to the test. Part number 22680-52F00 - S13 1991-onwards SR20DE and SR20DET - RPS13 1991-onwards SR20DET - S14 1993-1995 SR20DE Part number 22680-69F01 - S14 1995-onwards SR20DET - S15 1999-onwards SR20DET
  16. HFM Brake Master Cylinder Problem

    I have a OEM R33 GTST cylinder to match my R33 GTST brakes but the pedal is soft so I took a risk and tried this HFM cylinder and the piece of shit doesn't seem to work at all. I was hoping that maybe I missed something on installation. I don't know how many times I have wanted to just give up and set my stupid car on fire and watch it burn. This brake upgrade is suppose to be simple but the brake cylinder side of things is holding me back.
  17. tie rod ends

    On my 180sx I have 25mm extended LCA's and modded knuckles and use Maxima A32 inner rods (RE1050) and Skyline outer tie rods (TE-926-14)
  18. 180sx kit options

    I currently have Railworks front bar, Veilside sideskirts and rear pods. Have a Type X rear valance to yet install and want to eventually get BN Sports front fenders and D-Max bonnet. In all honestly Type X body kit looks nice sporty and slick and stands out to a crowd. Unless you're wanting to go something different then everyone else Type X kit is the way to go.
  19. Under seat subwoofer

    This gives you an idea on what twin 12" subs are like in the boot with the amp hidden behind. To access the amp you just have to remove the rear seat. It's an old pic and have since replaced all the speakers and made it flush with the parcel shelf.
  20. Brake pedal feel issue

    What I don't understand is that with the standard S13 BMC (BM44) it was firm when running but since installing a R33 BMC (BM44) it is now soft. They are the same size BMC so there shouldn't be any difference. There must be an issue somewhere. Hopefully when my BM57 arrives it should make things firmer.
  21. Intake Question.

    The whole idea of going a solid intake pipe is that it won't collapse like rubber when your turbo is sucking in large amounts of air resulting in a loss of power. I bought mine from GKTech but unfortunately I don't think they do them any more. Non VCT engines (S13) had a catch can where as VCT engines (S14/15) didn't due to the rocker covers having better internal baffling allowing for the elimination of a catch can.
  22. Intake Question.

    What's the need of having that front catch can when they still have the standard catch can installed. That hose going from the rocker cover to the front catch can should be connected to the inlet. A vacuum is ideal for the rocker cover to assist with reliving pressure. Ideally if using a front catch can like picture one outlet should be going to vacuum source.
  23. Brake pedal feel issue

    I don't have ABS and got a R33 non-abs BM44 to match my R33 front and rear brakes. Everything has been matched. My standard booster supported my standard BM44 so should support the R33 BM44 as their the exact same size only with a different bias. I cracked the shits today and bought a HFM BM57 BMC and will give it a go. Just hoping it works and I haven't just waisted a heap of money.
  24. Brake pedal feel issue

    That sounds like my how my pedal felt when I still had the S15 BM50 installed on the GTR brakes. It would actually be twitchy on initial bite of the brakes, feel soft but still brake ok. Make sure the brakes match exactly the same booster as intended. A hazardous guess that it's not filling ap the entire piston lengh of the brakes and resulting in a spongy feel If you have mixed the front and rear brakes then you would need something that sets the bias proportionally and flows the correct amount of fluid. Honestly, just match the rear as intended if that's the case. The conversion was easy enough. The BM57 stiffened the pedal for me and offered linear braking with a shorter stopping distance. . Yeah I have installed R33 GTST front and rear brakes and BMC. I'm still using the S13 booster though. How can the booster be not keeping up when my standard BMC is a BM44 and the R33 GTST is a BM44, only difference is the bias. Brakes bleed fine and feel firm when engine is off but go all soft when engine is running but when applied still stops the car.
  25. Brake pedal feel issue

    I'm currently trying to work out what's wrong with my brakes. Sounds similar to your problem. Is your brake pedal firm when the engine is off then becomes soft when the engine is running? I changed my brakes to R33 GTST with a R33 GTST BM44 BMC. My brakes felt fine before the upgrade but now is soft only when the engine is running. I have done a boost leak test and holds over 25psi without any major leaks. I have replaced the booster and bled the system a million times. Brakes work and stop the car but are just overly soft. I'm unsure if mine becomes firmer as the revs increase as you describe as I haven't yet driven my car. I don't have ABS and my booster valve appears to be working. I'm lost on what to do, hopefully you find a solution and it may relate to my issue.