Jump to content


Silver Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About wozza

  • Rank
    Silver Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

General Info

  • Location
    Australia VIC
  1. Cant down shift into 2nd

    Also try bleeding the system several times.
  2. Cant down shift into 2nd

    Sounds like the clutch plates aren't releasing enough. Can you adjust the clutch master cylinder rod to get a bit more length or the slave? Id also contact xtreme themselves.
  3. I spoke too soon Dose pipe. I hooked the datascan back up to the ecu and the headli ghts and fan DO take the TPS off closed and off normal idle. Sorry. And i think my 2000rpm idle might have been caused by my power steering being low on fluid as it hasnt happened since i topped up the fluid. I had no idea these things affected idle!
  4. Just tried turning on lights, heater fan,wipers and indicators all together. Idle temporarly increases around 100rpm then settles back to std 950rpm.So i reckon its not the electrical load.
  5. Ok that makes sense but why 2000 rpm? Is that just a malfunctioning ACC? And wouldn't that be the job of the FICD which turns up the idle when the AC is on?
  6. I'm trying to work out the strange idle behavior of my S13 SR20DET. When the radiator cooling fan turns on at 87 deg the idle goes up from 950 to around 1200+ rpm, and Datascan shows the "closed TPS" switches from ON to OFF, and the timing goes up from 15 deg to 30 deg. When I was in bumper to bumper traffic the other day idle went way up to 2000rpm and only came down when I could gather some speed or if I parked the car and waited for the temperature to drop. I initially thought the FICD was connected by mistake to my cooling fan instead of the AC fan (it's an engine conversion into a Peugeot and I'm not running AC) so I connected some jumper wires between the IACV male and female connector plug and tried unplugging the FICD wire while it was idling high but it made no difference. However when I unplug the ACC wire the revs dropped to 700rpm. This says to me that it's the ACC creating the high revs when the fan kicks in and not the FICD, which is supposed to increase idle when AC is turned on. But how does the ACC/ECU know that the exact second the cooling fan has kicked in? And why does it take the TPS off "closed TPS"? Could it be a problem with the "wax pellet" in the IACV which controls cold idle? TPS and timing have been set at factory settings, new coolant temp sender installed and car idles fine if a little high at 950rpm when "closed TPS" is showing ON. I can't seem to get a lower idle than 950rpm though even going through the factory idle procedure. Any ideas?
  7. So anybody got a noid light set who can tell me which one fits the sr?
  8. I've done some more searching on google and this might be the right one but not sure - GM PFI
  9. Just wondering which is the correct noid light for the SR20DET injectors. Have done a search and nothing about size comes up. I measured the injectors and they seem to be 2mm OD terminals with a centre to centre spacing of 5mm. Heard that GM noid lights fit but there seem to be different GM models. Don't want to get a whole set of these just the single light.
  10. Fitting new turbo

    yep thats what alot of people are getting and with that pressure you'd need a restrictor in the braided line or banjo bolt. I still want to measure mine though as it could be different due to a worn oil pump.
  11. Fitting new turbo

    What about at max revs? What's the max pressure?
  12. Fitting new turbo

    The restrictor in the turbo cage pin you can't delete but tbe restrictor in the banjo bolt or AN fitting of a braided line is optional. You just get a banjo/AN with no restrictor in it. I disagree that adding another restrictor has no effect. I'm going to run with no restrictor until i can measure my oil pressure and keep tbe revs under 4000rpm so there's no risk of too much pressure. I've just blown a turbo due to oil starvation so not risking it with the new turbo.
  13. Fitting new turbo

    Same size as which fittings - the internal restrictor? I'm pretty sure two restrictors in the same line would reduce the flow/pressure more than just one restrictor - like two resistors in series in an electrical circuit. Also the restrictor doesn't increase pressure - it decreases overall pressure. If you put in a 100% restrictor (a plug) in the oil line then the pressure increases in the source side and decreases to zero at the turbo side of the restrictor. If you put a 99% restrictor in the line (a minute hole in the plug) then there's sightly more overall pressure than zero at the turbo side but not much more. What pressure there is would be more concentrated onto a smaller area but the overall pressure in the line would still be much less than the source pressure.
  14. Fitting new turbo

    As I'm re-fitting a GT2871 too I've had to face this question as well. Post #17 in thread below suggests looking for oil leaks through the compressor after running at 3000rpm but surely max oil pressure happens at higher revs than that. Anyway I think I'll be buying an oil pressure guage soon and connecting it up to the turbo oil supply line. Garrett says testing your own car is the only way to work out if you need a restrictor. They say the max pressure for a BB is 45psi and I've heard an SR can go up to 90 and more psi. And yes there is a built-in restrictor in the BB cage pin but Garrett seems to be saying this isn't always enough. http://www.sxoc.com/...=oil+restrictor
  15. With copper washers I usually tighten them down really snug - guessing around 10-15 pounds of torque. I can't really use that much torque with these though. I rang the shop back and they had no idea how much to torque them! It feels a bit risky so I think I'll just get some copper ones. Not worth the risk of the bolt loosening.