All information for the Silvia and 300zx has been derived from Nissan Factory Service Manuals.
Unfortunately, the Skyline information comes from a variety of sources, as it isn't covered in the same detail in the factory manuals. Seems the 80's were better haha.
The following models are covered in full:
Nissan S13/180sx (1989-1998)
Nissan S14 200sx (1993-1998)
Nissan S15 200sx (1999-2002)
Nissan Z32 300zx (1989-2000)
QUICK REFERENCE LIST
For those with a bad memory, print this list out, trim to size, laminate, and attach to the underside of the bonnet.
If you have a smart phone, then store it on that too for ease of reference.
S13 Consumables List.pdf
S14 Consumables List.pdf
S15 Consumables List.pdf
SILVIA/SKYLINE/300ZX FLUID GRADES & QUANTITIES
ENGINE OIL QUANTITY
S13 CA18: 3.1L no filter, 3.5L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG)
S13 SR20: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH)
S14: 3.5L no filter, 3.7L inc filter (API SF/CC, SF/CD, SE, SG, SH)
S15: 3.3L no filter, 3.5L inc filter, 3.8L dry rebuild (API SG/SH/SJ, ILSAC grade GF-1/GF-2)
Z32: 3.0L no filter, 3.4L inc filter (EC-1/EC-2/Energy Conserving Oils of API SG)
RB20DE/RB25DE: 3.8L no filter, 4.2L inc filter (API SE/SF/SG)
RB25DET: 3.9L no filter, 4.3L inc filter
RB26DETT: 4.2L no filter, 4.6L inc filter
ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
S13/S14/S15: 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-40, 15W-50 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-20, 20W-40, 20W-50 (Hot areas only)
Z32: 10W-30, 10W-40 (Warm and Cold Areas), 20W-50 (Hot areas only), 5W-30 (Extremely cold areas only, for VG30DETT)
MANUAL GEAR OIL
S13: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4))
S14: 2.4L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4))
S15: 1.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4))
Z32: 2.8L (75W-90/80W-90 (API GL-4))
AUTOMATIC GEAR OIL
S13/S14: 7.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid)
S15: 7.9L (Dexron III/Mercon type ATF Fluid)
Z32: 8.3L VG30DE, 8.2L VG30DETT (Genuine Nissan ATF or Dexron II type ATF fluid)
HELICAL & VISCOUS DIFFERENTIAL OIL
S13/S14: 1.8L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials)
S15: 1.2-1.4L (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Use regular differential gear oil, not oil designed for LSD differentials)
Z32: 1.5L VG30DE, 1.8L VG30DETT (80W-90 API GL-5 gear oil) (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials)
R33GTST: 1.8L (Always use fluid stated as being designed for LSD differentials)
S13/S14/S15: 7.0L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.8L)
Z32: 9.0L inc reservoir
R33/R34: 9.4 inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L)
R33GTR: 9.6L inc reservoir (reservoir is 0.9L)
Demineralised Water + Green Ethelyne Glycol Base Antifreeze (30% concentrate for temps above -15C, 50% concentrate for temps above -35C)
POWER STEERING FLUID
S13/S14: 0.9L (Dexron type ATF fluid)
S15: 0.9L (Dexron III type ATF fluid)
Z32: 0.9L (Dexron II type ATF fluid)
S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 1L for a complete bleed)
S13/S14/S15/Z32: DOT 3 brake fluid (Less than 0.5L for a complete clutch bleed without clutch damper lines)
S13/S14/S15/Z32/R32GTR: Lithium soap base (NLGI No. 2)
INFORMATION ABOUT COOLANT
Coolant is one of those aspects of car maintenance in which people buy the right products, but really don't understand why.
Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT). Suitable to cast iron blocks. Oldest formula containing silicate and phosphates, which reduce electrical conductivity, but damage coolant seals.
Organic Acid Technology (OAT). Suitable for aluminium blocks only. No silicate or phosphate, but can rust cast iron blocks if run too low.
Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Silicate-free OAT formula with additional phosphates to protect against corrosion. A compromise between IAT and OAT.
Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). OAT formula with additional nitrites to reduce electrical conductivity. Orange version contains 10% recycled coolant.
MYTHS AND FACTS
1. You can't mix different coolant types
False. Mixing coolant can be done, but ideally should be avoided. Only use the coolant type specified by the manufacturer.
2. Never run tap water, as it will rust your engine.
True and False. For a short peroid of time it isn't an issue, but drain and replace all the coolant as soon as you can.
3. It's really important to run the correct quantity of coolant, and bleed the system of air.
True. Do not underfill. Coolant vapour is more corrosive than water or coolant, so running low is worse than running tap water.
4. Running more coolant concentrate is better than less. I'm being ripped off at the shops when a premix is only 30% ethelyne glycol.
False. The thermal capacity of Ethelyne Glycol is lower than water, so water is actually more effective at removing heat. You only want enough concentrate to raise the boiling point of the water, improve its freezing point, and reduce electrolysis. It's a balancing act, and 30% is the best compromise. 50% should be reserved for really cold climates, hence it never appears as a premix option in Australia.
Information courtesy of (http://homepage.usas...AntiFreeze.html).
S13: Ryco Z442 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve)
S14/S15: Ryco Z445 or equivalent (must contain anti-drainback valve)
S13/S14/S15: Ryco A360
S13/S14/S15: Ryco Z201 (to upgrade, use Z32 filter)
Z32: Ryco Z202
Factory is 0.9mm
Regap to 0.7 or 0.8 if running high boost
S13/S14/S15 HEAT RANGE
NGK 6 is factory.
Go one plug colder for every 100HP of extra power, the next step up from factory being NGK 7.
A 'colder' plug simply means that heat is transferred to the head faster, cooling the tip of the plug and the combustion chamber faster. More power and more boost equates to more heat, hence significant increases require a different plug.
PLUGS FOR 0-200KW (LOWER THAN 14 PSI BOOST)
NGK BKR6E (Copper 0.8mm gap)
NGK PFR6B-9 (Platinum 0.9mm gap)
NGK BKR6E-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them)
NGK BKR6EIX (Iridium 0.7mm gap)
NGK BCPR6ES (Platinum 0.8mm gap)
NGK BCPR6ES-11 (Platinum 1.1mm gap – regap them)
PLUGS FOR 200KW+ (ABOVE 14 PSI BOOST)
NGK BKR7ES (Copper)
NGK BKR7ES-11 (Copper 1.1mm gap – regap them)
NGK BKR7EIX (Iridium)
Do not use Platinum plugs. Copper and Iridium only.
COPPER VS PLATINUM VS IRIDIUM
The primary difference between the three is longevity. Platinum and Iridium last around 3 times longer.
On some engines, changing spark plugs is a big chore, but not so on the SR20, so this is less of an advantage.
I recommend copper, as it can be regapped without causing damage to the tip, and is so much cheaper than platinum/iridium that occasional replacement still makes it more economically viable. Turbo engines tend to wear spark plugs faster than NA, so replacement should be done periodically anyway.
SCANS OF NISSAN OIL RECOMMENDATION CHART