s13q's, on 16 April 2013 - 06:41 PM, said:
Speaking of clutches.. but pedal travel is really low.
Any idea what it could be?
Unless you're running something unusual like a twin plate setup, then it purely comes down to clutch pedal adjustment.
Check the manual for the recommended specs and locations of the adjustment screws.
Stuss15, on 17 April 2013 - 06:30 AM, said:
I wouldrecommend not to get a button, I'm making 240rwkw with an exedy organic but not sure which type. It feels just like stock and haven't had a proboblem for the last 40 000 clutch inning it hear and there and doing a few track days.
Yeah, probably worth discussing organics and buttons further.
OP - there are a few pros and cons to the organic/button discussion, assuming we're only comparing sprung driven plates here.
There's no real way to avoid a heavy pedal for the most part; an HD Organic uses a similar enough pressure plate to a 5-puck button. I had an Exedy HD Organic on my Supra and a friend's Subaru, and whilst both were the same pedal weight, the Supra was much better due to it having a hydraulic clutch. It was unnecessary and annoying on the Subaru, so we swapped the HD pressure plate for a stock one and it was like oem again, even whilst using the HD driven plate.
People mistake the grab of a button clutch and the 2mm or so take-point as pedal weight, which is incorrect. Now I'm a bit of an asshole for saying this, but people that complain about the pedal weight of a properly setup button are usually weak, don't have their seat adjusted correctly, or really don't know the way to operate a clutch. All those issues can be fixed, and having myself taught little asian girls to drive manual in my 180, I don't consider it a major issue. If an adult male finds it too hard then ffs do more calf-raises and hill runs homeboy.
If you have good fine-motor-skills in your left foot, it's easy to control the blend with either an HD Organic or button irrespective of the increased weight; I have no issue driving in stop/start traffic with hills using either. The reason I say motor-skills is that the take-point of a 5-puck is rather small and they grab hard. I like this, since I can easily work with a 2-5mm window of operation and the grab makes for awesome power skids, however people that struggle to control their foot will usually hold the clutch for a long time trying to hit the right point and subsequently get tired.
In saying that the weight can annoy you over a long and busy drive, however you really aren't supposed to blend/ride the pedal with ceramic or cerametallic clutch pucks anyway, as it shreds the flywheel. You're better off just waiting for gaps in traffic and spending less time with your foot on the pedal. Irrespective, if you remove the Nissan clutch damper lines and install a Nismo slave cylinder (or a stock cylinder bored and modified to similar specs) the pedal is a little lighter and has way more feedback, making a button quite controllable and therefore blending and riding viable.
Durability and Suitability
I can't say for a fact whether it was my daily clutch kicks or my habit of holding hills with the clutch, but despite the driving and shifting being fine when I pulled the dead engine, both my oem flywheel and clutch were trashed unpon inspection. One puck was worn past the rivets and the flywheel heavily scored, and you really can't achieve the same with the material of an organic until it wears down to metal. So I've replaced it with a new flywheel and an even more aggressive clutch, as the direct engagement characteristcs suit my driving. I used to kick my Supra plenty, but the bite of the organic just wasn't as nice as the 5-puck.
Edited by pmod, 17 April 2013 - 10:19 AM.