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Budget CA S13 Track Car - Upgrades time... 

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#1111 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 04 January 2016 - 08:31 PM

Does this help?

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#1112 B00sted180

  • Joined:26-March 12
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180SX

Posted 04 January 2016 - 09:01 PM

View PostActionDan, on 04 January 2016 - 08:31 PM, said:


Cheers was just having trouble picturing it

Edited by B00sted180, 04 January 2016 - 09:01 PM.


#1113 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 15 January 2016 - 09:34 AM

OK starting to think about getting this back together as the 34 is just sitting there waiting for a tuner.

I wanted to shim the diff before putting it all back together but can't find anything conclusive about what thickness shim to use vs tightness. Being a track car I don't want it fully locked.

Any guides?

#1114 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:05 PM

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=516510

#1115 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:07 PM

Have read it, saw this.

"youll find with a 1.1mm shim on top of the old nissan one itll lock like a 2way."

That's not what I want, so where's the middle ground?

I'll see what's in there first and I was thinking of pulling the stock one and going a single 1.1 to 1.5 or something?

#1116 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:24 PM

I've always understood it to be a case-by-case deal, with most people just installing a shim and seeing how it performs. Personally, I'd try half the shim thickness of the claimed 'locker' amount, chuck the diff in and test it. Drive slowly in a circle to see whether it chirps like a locker, then smoke it through first gear and see whether you have two lines on the ground.

#1117 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:26 PM

And then pull it down again... f**k me lol

The goal is to avoid having to do it heap s of times, but from what I hear/read there just isn't a definite answer.

Maybe I'll just go fresh new 1.1s

#1118 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:58 PM

When i had my s13 i stacked the 1.1mm shim onto the original shim and it was pretty much a locker. The tyres chirped and skipped on every corner no matter how fast or slow i was driving and it chewed the inside of my tyres out reasonably quicker. If i was you id just go a 1.1mm shim on its own, not stacked on the original shim. Should lock both rears under load yet still have a bit of slip slower/lighter driving on corners and especially round abouts.

#1119 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 01 February 2016 - 08:17 AM

Stop the press, something happened. Pics inluded for proof.

So, with the GT-R heading off to the tuners this weekend (hopefully, it's been a bit of a wait chasing him) I had some time to spend on the Silvia.

Managed to drain, remove, and split the diff centre.

I've been questioning my cheap recpo digital verniers lately but the existing shim measured 1.16mm. I was under the impression the the factory shim was .8mm? I measured some feeler gauge blades to test the verniers and they seemed accurate'ish depending on how tightly I wound it. As you can see though, the diff centre has paint pen on it, so I wonder if it's been split before?

So, the question becomes. Do I bang a fresh .8mm on top of this and put it back together, remove it and put say a 1.6 or 1.8mm in etc.

I just want it to stop lighting up the inside wheel when the weight is lifted off that wheel and power is applied.

Also, I'm toying with the idea of putting the GT-R on E85 (I have to think about it because there's none locally, but a few workshops/friends head down regularly and fill barrells). If I did that, I'd consider putting the Silvia on it too, though I'm not sure the 460cc injectors would flow 200kw on E85 let alone more. I'm not too concerned about peak power, just midrange and response.

Thoughts on shims and E85?

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#1120 Kirksil13

  • Joined:29-December 09
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 01 February 2016 - 06:50 PM

You will definitely need to upgrade the 460cc injectors if going e85 on the silvia. Id suggest nismo 740cc's as a drop in or you can go larger bosch injectors with a top mount rail.

#1121 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 02 February 2016 - 07:17 AM

I was just looking at how bad the fuel economy is on e85, so maybe I won't go that route on the GT-R for the moment, which means no for the Silvia also.

Diff shims?

#1122 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 08 February 2016 - 01:30 PM

No diff progress because people are half convincing me to go s15 helical instead of just shimming.

In the meantime, this is happening...

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#1123 blingcommander

  • Joined:05-October 06
  • Location:Japan
  • Car:Scooty-Puff Jr.

Posted 08 February 2016 - 03:24 PM

You have a 34 gtr?
Why are you f**king around with a s13??

#1124 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:Fruity 180sx

Posted 08 February 2016 - 03:51 PM

The S13 is a track car he tinkers with on the cheap, and I expect the GTR is a toy car he keeps stock.

#1125 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 08 February 2016 - 05:04 PM

I thought I mentioned this back in November?

I bought a cheapo S13 so I could keep saving for the GTR after I sold my last one years ago and started driving slow dailies to regain my points.

Whilst I could do the work myself I just don't have the time with toddler, another on the way, work, the Silvia etc so it's in at the tuners for mods.

I had the z tune front end finished before Christmas and now it's getting the PowerFC removed for a Haltech, possibly flex fuel, and some -9s with all the usual supports. I did the injectors and pump before it went in. It's at the fabricators now going from 3" to 3.5" to match the beastly HPI front pipe.

Just aiming for a stock engine bay and 310-330rwkw on 98 hopefully.

#1126 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 09 February 2016 - 07:11 AM

Looks like I might have found a helical centre and shafts for $50 lol

#1127 Green_s13

  • Joined:26-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13

Posted 12 February 2016 - 09:18 AM

nice i'm thinking about doing this for my car, let me know how it goes.

#1128 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 12 February 2016 - 09:21 AM

Will be a while. He doesn't have the shafts.

Talking to another guy who might have both.

#1129 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 12 February 2016 - 11:16 AM

No luck, at least got a centre cheap.

Just need shafts now.

#1130 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 17 February 2016 - 07:06 AM

This arrived. Now looking for s15 6 bolt half shafts to match. I promise I will eventually finish modifying the rear end and drive the car... one day lol

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#1131 nismoman

  • Joined:19-May 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:1992 Nissan S13 Silvia SR20DET

Posted 17 February 2016 - 03:17 PM

A friend of mine runs an S15 helical diff in his sports sedan. It is in an Alfa Sud with a turbo 13B rotary pushing about 450hp.
He's never had it break or any issues.

#1132 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 17 February 2016 - 06:40 PM

Good to know.

I'm dropping the centre and the original crown wheel at my fabricators while he does the GTR exhaust. He can tap the original crown wheel for the 13mm bolts and we should be good to go once I get half shafts.

Am I right in thinking that my crown wheel on that centre will retain my better suited ratio?

#1133 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 17 February 2016 - 08:31 PM

the centre should drop into your diff housing and, with your original crown attached, should just need some minor adjustment for gearmesh.

#1134 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 17 February 2016 - 08:33 PM

That's the part I'm not sure about.

Any good resources around on that?

Lots of people talk about backlash etc but nobody talks about how to set a diff up properly.

#1135 Varvs

  • Joined:21-December 07
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:97 180sx Type X

Posted 17 February 2016 - 10:02 PM

All i really know is from my RC car days using Tally Hos to set the mesh between the spur gear and the clutch bell :)

#1136 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 18 February 2016 - 07:11 AM

lol cheers

#1137 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 03 March 2016 - 09:15 AM

Bit of a hold up, my fabricator doesn't have a suitable drill or tap to do the crown wheel for me :(

Will go collect it and try one of his recommendations.

#1138 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 09 March 2016 - 06:51 PM

Success. Found some s15 6 bolt shafts.

Still trying to find someone to tap my crown wheel.

When moving to r33 rear calipers on the rear with 4 stud. Can I just use R33 GT/GT4 rear rotors?

Also, if I just chucked the car on e85 and tuned, how far do you think I'd get on those 460cc injectors. Also wondering if the walbro 255 and 400lph pumps I have would be OK with e85.

Edited by ActionDan, 09 March 2016 - 06:52 PM.


#1139 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 14 March 2016 - 10:14 AM

Update and Picture Time!

Dropped diff back at fabricators to make some sleeves for the centre so I can use the M12 bolts, nobody locally wanted to tap it, apparently crown wheels are hardened steel =\

got back to work on the subframe install, ended up removing the entire hub/assembly and shock because test fittin a subframe with that shit in the way is a nightmare. Scratched up all my nice paint on the subframe =\ I'll touch it up before finally assembly.

There was no way I was bashing the rear chassis rails enough to clear the mount so I got the grinder out, ground back the right angle then used the sledge hammer to fold it down and create an angle. Just hit it with some rust proof for now, dunno if I should hit it with the welder for strength?

Stub axles turn up too.

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#1140 ActionDan

  • Joined:23-December 05
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13 SlowVia

Posted 15 March 2016 - 07:12 AM

Fabricator reckons I should stitch it jst to be sure. y neighbour is handy with a welder and his is portable so he's going to come over and sort it for me.

That aside, was thinking I might take this build thread to SAU, the people who comment here are active there also, but these forums seem fairly dead these days.





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