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Redtop SR20DET knock sensor location 

33 replies to this topic

#1 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 31 August 2004 - 09:57 PM

Hey peoples,
Just need to know where bouts the knock sensor is on a redtop s13 SR20DET. I think mine is gone, having the car dyno'd on thursday, aswell as a diagnostics, cos the car is retarding itself automatically. Also if anyone has had to replace one whats hte expected cost and how hard is it to do?

#2 sr180

  • Joined:05-January 03
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:Nissan 1996 180sx.

Posted 31 August 2004 - 10:08 PM

It is located underneath the inlet manifold. Not the easiest to get to. They also are not cheap to purchase either... Try disconnecting it and seeing if that makes a difference before replacing it.

#3 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 31 August 2004 - 10:19 PM

Fark, i knew it would be under there... freaken gay inlet's on s13's :S

Which plug is it to disconnect? I noticed the loom goes down to the TPS, is it one near there?

#4 sr180

  • Joined:05-January 03
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:Nissan 1996 180sx.

Posted 31 August 2004 - 10:39 PM

I'm not sure. Have a look in the s14 tech manual, its in there.

#5 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 31 August 2004 - 10:41 PM

farkn dial up :( lol thanks tho dude... anyone got a rough guess or experienced guess at price of the sensor itself and also having it changed?

#6 Brad

  • Joined:04-November 02
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:S15

Posted 31 August 2004 - 11:21 PM

Ive seen ones for around $100 go for a VG30, and up near $200 for a RB25, but havent seen any SR20DET ones though man. Id be really guessing if I said anything...

Brad.

#7 SpankyS13

  • Joined:04-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2004 - 07:34 AM

sorry to change topic - when yuou say its retarding itself automatically, can you explain that? My car every now and then after driving for a while seems to have trouble accelerating above 2-2.5k rpms. It feels like it gets stuck there, for want of a better word. Turn the car off for a while, and it gets better then may do it again after a while. Does that describe your problem as well? Is your car auto or manual?

Cheers, Cos this is really starting to shit me too!

#8 gblake

  • Joined:04-November 02
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:S14

Posted 01 September 2004 - 07:40 AM

When I purchased my S14 it was missing the Knock Sensor. The fault shows up on when you put your ecu in diagnisis mode..

You could pay to get another one, but I just put a resistor in line on the loom to replace it to trick the ecu into thinking it was there, just not receive any signals the engine is knocking... Thus the motor doesn't retard as a safety.. You do loose a safety barrier, but I'm not running any sick boost or anything so I'm pretty sure its not detonating..
Oh yeah, and I did buy a S13 SR knock sensor + mini loom for mine from a fellow ns member. But after trying to put it on found it to be next to impossible to put on without taking my whole motor apart/out.. If anyones chasing one give me a yell..

#9 gblake

  • Joined:04-November 02
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:S14

Posted 01 September 2004 - 07:58 AM

And here's my disclaimer to you don't blame me when it all turns to sh#t
(VG knock sensors and the same)

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSens...tionSensor.html

:)

#10 AFNUTSS

  • Joined:05-August 03
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:1991 180sx

Posted 01 September 2004 - 10:10 AM

SpankyS13, on Sep 1 2004, 12:17 AM, said:

sorry to change topic - when yuou say its retarding itself automatically, can you explain that? My car every now and then after driving for a while seems to have trouble accelerating above 2-2.5k rpms. It feels like it gets stuck there, for want of a better word. Turn the car off for a while, and it gets better then may do it again after a while. Does that describe your problem as well? Is your car auto or manual?

Cheers, Cos this is really starting to shit me too!
not entirely off topic
what u are experienceing sounds like your ecu is going into safe mode, thus retarding the timing big time.
take it to a workshop for a diagnistics dude.

PS is urs auto?

#11 smatty

  • Joined:11-November 03
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 01 September 2004 - 10:34 AM

Stop bitchin about this gay arse problem, lol. It's as simple as they get to fix. Go to tandy or something buy yourself a 500 or 600 ohm resister, find the wires for the knock sensor... or if your lazy as... here it is:

27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White

cut it from the ECU insert resister and ground wire, there you go problem fixed without even lifting your bonnet.

Attached Images

  • Attached Image: untitled.JPG


#12 SpankyS13

  • Joined:04-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2004 - 02:23 PM

AFNUTSS, on Sep 1 2004, 10:53 AM, said:

SpankyS13, on Sep 1 2004, 12:17 AM, said:

sorry to change topic - when yuou say its retarding itself automatically, can you explain that? My car every now and then after driving for a while seems to have trouble accelerating above 2-2.5k rpms. It feels like it gets stuck there, for want of a better word. Turn the car off for a while, and it gets better then may do it again after a while. Does that describe your problem as well? Is your car auto or manual?

Cheers, Cos this is really starting to shit me too!
not entirely off topic
what u are experienceing sounds like your ecu is going into safe mode, thus retarding the timing big time.
take it to a workshop for a diagnistics dude.

PS is urs auto?
Yes, Mine is Auto...I assumed this as well, and am gettting a re-mapped ecu on thursday which 'may' fix the problem. But it would also be nice to know what is the cause of this problem, not simply overriding a safety mechanism which was probably put into the car for a good reason (smatty)

#13 smatty

  • Joined:11-November 03
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 01 September 2004 - 03:26 PM

SpankyS13, on Sep 1 2004, 05:06 AM, said:

Yes, Mine is Auto...I assumed this as well, and am gettting a re-mapped ecu on thursday which 'may' fix the problem. But it would also be nice to know what is the cause of this problem, not simply overriding a safety mechanism which was probably put into the car for a good reason (smatty)
Dude i hope your joking, and if not you are a little missinformed.

1) The 'knock sensor' is in-operable after 4000rpm due to the amount of noise and vibration from the motor, so right at the most likely time detonation would take place the good old nissan sr20 "knock sensor" don't do squat.

2) The knock sensor on sr20's are a very common fault, if it is comming up with code 34 that does NOT mean your car is pinging it means your knock sensor is faulty - and your ecu will revert to a safe mode.

3) These things are dead set near impossible to get to, and even when you do they are quite espensive to replace

4) unless you are running a PFC the knock sensor is a worthless peice of crap, that is as far from a "safety mechanism" as bald tyres in the snow.

#14 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2004 - 05:27 PM

Sounds like thats the issue, i hears its fairly common for a nissan knock sensor to give in. Mine is a manual tho it makes no difference really, cos its the same shit. Not to keen on the resistor thing tho :huh: but i'll know the exact cause tomoz when i have the diagnostics test done aswell as timing and dyno run to see. Hopefully its jsut the timing is out and henec caused it to go into limp mode n they can reset timing and ECU, if not then yeah.. me dunno yet.

#15 smatty

  • Joined:11-November 03
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 01 September 2004 - 06:17 PM

Surreal: dude if you have done an ECU check and it comes up 34 then no diagnostic resetting is going to fix it, your sensor is shot. As i said before it is really common, i know like 4 people who this has happened to most notably my mate with his GTiR it drove him nuts and he was sceptical about the old resistortrick but in the end he did it and the car has been running like a dream ever since. pm him if you want jams_82

#16 smatty

  • Joined:11-November 03
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 01 September 2004 - 06:21 PM

edit: repost, this site is having a few glitches...

#17 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2004 - 07:42 PM

I never said i had done it yet... i said i was having it done tomorror on a Snap-On diagnostics tester... so until then i wont be doing anything. And if it is gone i will probably be changing it, its there for a reason, and i don't want to risk it... but either way until i know whats going on and if it is actually farked then i wont know.

#18 smatty

  • Joined:11-November 03
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 01 September 2004 - 08:45 PM

OK fair call, i thought you would have checked your ECU otherwise how do you know it's even your sensor. Also i know heaps of people who hook there sr's up to them 'diagnostic centers' and they tell little more than a simple ecu check. I'm not having a go or anything mate just trying to maybe save you a couple of $$ by checking your ecu first, takes 5 mins and is simple as.

#19 Oggie

  • Joined:21-December 03
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:2002 S15

Posted 01 September 2004 - 09:22 PM

If you want, I have a working second-hand knock sensor off my old red-top you can have for $30.00 plus post:

http://180sx.locost7.info/for_sale.php

#20 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 01 September 2004 - 09:24 PM

How do i do it then? I got till before tomoz morning to do it lol i gotta be down the work shop at 8.30 :S Somehting about a screw on teh ECU you turn a few ways yeah?

#21 Oggie

  • Joined:21-December 03
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:2002 S15

Posted 01 September 2004 - 11:10 PM

SuRReaL, on Sep 1 2004, 08:07 PM, said:

How do i do it then? I got till before tomoz morning to do it lol i gotta be down the work shop at 8.30 :S Somehting about a screw on teh ECU you turn a few ways yeah?
This site has an explanation of how to check the ECU codes: ECU Codes

#22 resonance

  • Joined:21-September 03
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 02 September 2004 - 04:32 PM

Oggie, on Sep 1 2004, 10:05 PM, said:

If you want, I have a working second-hand knock sensor off my old red-top you can have for $30.00 plus post:

http://180sx.locost7.info/for_sale.php
Oggie - love your site. Has lots of interesting articles you've written - well done :) *keeps reading*

#23 SuRReaL

  • Joined:06-November 02
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 02 September 2004 - 05:37 PM

Had it on dyno this morning... leeeeeeeean as a mo fo... not pinging tho which is good... lucky i barely drive the car, let alone thrash it cos it coulda got nasty! Turns out it was a fuel related issue after all... OBVIOUSLY... started at the source... the fuel pump... as i am running a big Bosch pump, it could have meant it was faulty, the hose was leaking, or it was blocked... so i took it out and straight away saw what looks to be the problem (yet to drive it to see)... i grabbed a metal ruler and measured the distance from the top of the tank to the bottom, then measured from the bottom of the fuel pump to the top of the cage where it meats the tank... and there was a 3mm difference :huh: in other words there was 3mm of gap for a 650hp tank to suck up!! Obviously not gunna work...cos its such a big pump its hard to fit it, so a little modifcation before see's it now sit about 35-40mm from the bottom, almost its maximum so i shall see the difference!!

So basically the knock sensor is working properly i guess... shall see if it makes any difference now it can actuall pick up fuel... if it aint that i'll move to the fuel rail to take a fuel pressure reading maybe the reg is bung, if not then its on to injectors, they could be blocked... but one at a time atm.

#24 Oggie

  • Joined:21-December 03
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:2002 S15

Posted 02 September 2004 - 08:57 PM

resonance, on Sep 2 2004, 03:15 PM, said:

Oggie - love your site. Has lots of interesting articles you've written - well done :) *keeps reading*
Cheers!

#25 VertexS15

  • Joined:20-April 04
  • Location:Australia NSW

Posted 15 October 2009 - 08:46 AM

View Postsmatty, on 01 September 2004 - 10:34 AM, said:

Stop bitchin about this gay arse problem, lol. It's as simple as they get to fix. Go to tandy or something buy yourself a 500 or 600 ohm resister, find the wires for the knock sensor... or if your lazy as... here it is:

27 - Detonation sensorinput (knock sensor) - White

cut it from the ECU insert resister and ground wire, there you go problem fixed without even lifting your bonnet.


The last line I dont understand. Can someone please explain again? Very keen to do this.

#26 BADNLO

  • Joined:10-March 10
  • Location:Other
  • Car:96 s14 turbo manuel

Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:15 PM

hay dose anyone know what might b the cause why my car rev counter is plaing up when i go to put my foot down i get to about 4000 rpm and then the neddle drops and bounces aournd sometimes it gose then other times it sits at 1500rpm when driving plz if anyone could no the problem for that get back to me my car in an 1996 s14 black top turbo manuel cheers

#27 Marko

  • Joined:30-October 05
  • Location:Australia ACT

Posted 10 March 2010 - 08:45 PM

View Postsmatty, on 01 September 2004 - 03:26 PM, said:

SpankyS13, on Sep 1 2004, 05:06 AM, said:

Yes, Mine is Auto...I assumed this as well, and am gettting a re-mapped ecu on thursday which 'may' fix the problem. But it would also be nice to know what is the cause of this problem, not simply overriding a safety mechanism which was probably put into the car for a good reason (smatty)
Dude i hope your joking, and if not you are a little missinformed.

1) The 'knock sensor' is in-operable after 4000rpm due to the amount of noise and vibration from the motor, so right at the most likely time detonation would take place the good old nissan sr20 "knock sensor" don't do squat.

2) The knock sensor on sr20's are a very common fault, if it is comming up with code 34 that does NOT mean your car is pinging it means your knock sensor is faulty - and your ecu will revert to a safe mode.

3) These things are dead set near impossible to get to, and even when you do they are quite espensive to replace

4) unless you are running a PFC the knock sensor is a worthless peice of crap, that is as far from a "safety mechanism" as bald tyres in the snow.

how is it inoperable when my power fc knock reading is always slightly fluctuating and when u hit the limiter the knock goes up? its a peizo crystal so its always working dude.

#28 Grimace_Racing

  • Joined:17-October 08
  • Location:Australia TAS
  • Car:Built S14 Zenki

Posted 10 March 2010 - 11:44 PM

What he was saying is that with a factory ecu the knock sensor does not do anything (ie retard the timing) over 4000rpm not that it does not work (ie provide knock readings)....

#29 -fill-

  • Joined:25-February 07
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:180sx

Posted 11 March 2010 - 08:52 AM

View PostSuRReaL, on 31 August 2004 - 10:41 PM, said:

farkn dial up :( lol thanks tho dude... anyone got a rough guess or experienced guess at price of the sensor itself and also having it changed?
wtf?

you still have dial up? thats f**ked man. pm me your bank details, ima drop some sympathy coin into it hahahahahah

#30 aym23q

  • Joined:27-December 06
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:S15

Posted 11 March 2010 - 10:13 AM

FK YEA TOP THREAD REVIVAL! LOL


anyway to the bloke that has the tacho issue and completely unrelated to this ancient thread,
do you have an aftermarket shift light, or aftermarket tacho hooked up? if so thats your problem





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