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Posted 18 August 2008 - 07:55 AM
I've been Yarding for a while and I really get into finding parts that swap over from one car to another. Keep in mind that most car makers will not retool too often and they try to stick to what works instead of retooling. This means that a good bit of parts when machined by the factory, were machined to the same specs as other parts used for other cars in the same product line. Now that we're on the same page the info below will prove to be very useful if you have the J30 and/or Q45 platform in your area of the planet.
I was messing with this a few months back when I found a write up online that helped me alot, the guy just happen to be right ahead of me on the conversion but he didn't relocate the bearing retaining clip. Without the clip the bearing WILL shift in serious hard turns and this can cause you to wreck. I'm posting pictures of all the most important parts of the conversion.
The parts list:
(2) Infinity J30 or later Q45 front hubs. You will know if you have the right ones because they look like S14 hubs and they are 5 lug.
(2) S13 front hub bearings. New is best but I have been able to press out old ones without damage.
(1 Hour) Time on a lathe. Most of you will have to take the hubs to a machine shop. they will have no problems because the work is EASY.
Figure in some installation time if you have 5 lug rotors, if not then take your rotors to the machine shop with the hubs and get them redrilled.
First you will want to remove the rear seals and ABS speed reluctors from the J30 hubs and then remove the rataining clips that hold the bearing in place.
You will have to press out the old bearings. A press is needed.
In this picture the J30 hubs have a S13 bearing pressed in the left hub, you can't see the stock retaining groove.
*NOTE* The stock J30 hubs and bearings fit the S14 spindles and the offset is correct on the hubs for all known brake conversions but you have to use a washer spacer inbetween the stock lock washer and the bearing or the big nut will bottom out before securing the bearing. Keep in mind that in this configuration you can't run ABS or a rear hub seal.
Now back to the S13.
You have to take your hubs to the machine shop and have a new retaining ring groove cut in a new location so that the retaining ring will seat right with the S13 bearing in place. The S13 hub bearing has a taller outer race then the J30 bearing.
Taller S13 bearing on the right. The center races have a 2mm differance so it does not affect the offset of the hub.
At the sametime you have the hubs there at the machinest you might want to get your rotors redrilled if needed and have your hub bearings pressed in. I guess I'm lucky I have all the tools needed to complete all of this but most of you don't so you will have to pay a machinest a few bucks.
J30/Q45 brakes can be fitted to the S13 as a direct bolt-up. In the pic you can see the rotors had been redrilled to fit 4 lug hubs.
Snap the retaining rings into their new locations and you're almost there. The stock S13 bearing is sealed so no seal is needed.
Original retaining ring groove.
New retaining ring location right above the old one.
Retaining ring test fitted.
Swap the hub out for your stock 4lugger and fit your brakes and new wheels. The hub sits in the correct location for all brakes normaly used or crossed over to the S13.
Hubs mounted to a set of stock spindles.
All mounted up with perfect alignment.
When you go to fit the new cap onto the hub to cover the bearing and big nut, you will notice the cap hits the tip of the spindle axle. Cut the tip off right above the threads with a grinder/cut-off wheel or even a hacksaw can be used.
No need to change balljoints (roll centers), tie rod ends or spindles.......
Cost for me was:
Hubs were about $30.00US
Bearings were $90.00US shipped
Machining was $00.00 (I have a lathe and access to a press.)
I said it was Cheap/Safe/Easy!!!!
Thanks
pallnet
This post has been edited by pallnet: 18 August 2008 - 09:58 AM
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