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Locking HICAS (R32, similar for S13)
Posted 07 September 2006 - 06:35 PM
HICAS lock bar (PM me for recommended sellers)
50cm of 10mm (or 3/8" is a bit more common) ID hose. Trans cooler hose works nicely
2x hose clamps
<1L powersteering fluid
2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender
17, 21mm open ended spanner
10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful)
14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets.
PS. Power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all, makes clean up A LOT easier
90% sure that a31 and s31 are the same. had a quick look under the bonnet of one and the solenoid setup looked the same as S13, chances are something is a little different though...
Fitting the lockbar
First thing I did was put the lock bar on.
To do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. Crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. Keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. You will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it by tightening the loose tie rod back onto it. You can now undo the other tie rod. Inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn.
Now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car via the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). Once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. Now just unscrew the tie rods.
Get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). Then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them.
HICAS is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Removing rear-wards lines
Now we have to worry about it hydraulically.
For this part R32 and S13 are slightly different. Namely R32 has another solenoid at the back where as S13 doesn't.
You will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down, if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid (or a junction on S13). Undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car.
Next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. Follow the piping all the way up to the front of the car, removing the 10mm bolts and the piping from the clips on the way. Once you get to where the chassis rail curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. Hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car. (on s13 is 14mm and 17mm connections near front steering rack. looks like one piece but is seperate)
At this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to hicas. This is where s13 and r32 differ a lot.
Looping lines for R32
If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car.
Now put the car down/get out from under it and look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard). In front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. Follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it.
Now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. As there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used.
If you have any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work.
Now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. You may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. The solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). When they're off, wriggle the thing out. The remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom. Undo these and then wriggle them out again.
Looping lines for S13
There are a few ways to go about this one. I think the best way is to follow the rear outlet of the p/s pump down and eventually it goes from the highpressure hose to steel lines. Cut the steel line (leave a bit of meat so you have something to hose clamp onto). Then take off the little hose off the front inlet of the power steering resevoir. These two need to be joined up, you can either just undo the bracket at the bottom of the high pressure hose off the p/s pump and move the whole hose up to the resevoir and use a tiny bit of hose to connect them, or you can use a long piece of hose to connect them as they are now, or you can plumb a p/s cooler in at this time, etc. Many ways to go about it.
Now get under the car and remove all the lines that aren't connected anymore.
There are 2 lines at the top of the solenoid, 1 is high pressure, and 1 is low pressure and these are the feed and return to/from hicas. Undo both 24mm bolts and then undo the bracket near the engine mounts (12mm) for the lines and then they should pull out from under the car. Solenoid is then held in by 3 10mm bolts, 1 on top under some electrical crap, and 2 underneath and there is an electrical plug just in front of the fuse box. Undo all of these and then pull the solenoid out.
HICAS warning light
Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply havn't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low
The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light.
The HICAS computer is behind the rear passenger side armrest. To get to it, you must remove the seats (both top and bottom parts) and then take off the armrest part. This reveals the computer. The warning light sender is the blue with white trace line wire in the smaller of the two harnesses. Cut this and the warning light will no longer come on unless your p/s fluid is low.
Thanks to "ted" off the forums for finding this for me
There you have it, you have just removed all your HICAS shit. Look in awe at all the useless crap that you just removed from your car. Of course, you could've just looped the lines at the back, but you will only save a bit of weight, or you can block the lines off but once again you wont lose any weight and you can destroy the rear stage of your pump which means new pump. CAN happen, not will, a lot of people have gotten away with this.
Now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. Just keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up. Any air that is left in there will come out over the next couple of days as the system gravity bleeds itself (resevoir is the highest point).
Posted 04 November 2007 - 10:50 AM
Posted 13 November 2007 - 07:35 PM
If you have any questions, PM me.
Posted 21 November 2007 - 08:44 PM
Posted 18 January 2008 - 07:14 PM
Interested to know myself, how to find out whether i have hicas or not?
Posted 19 January 2008 - 02:52 PM
this is the only pic i have... long story but i had to weld one end to get the other off, those tie rods are a bitch to get out......
Posted 23 January 2008 - 11:00 PM
i undid one end and took the tie rod off, then got vice grips and held that end while undoing the other side..then put the lock bar in..simple took me 15mins
Posted 20 November 2008 - 08:46 AM
Posted 22 November 2008 - 09:35 PM
this is a good guide. cheers
Posted 30 November 2008 - 03:10 PM
Posted 05 December 2008 - 10:10 AM
Posted 27 January 2011 - 06:10 PM
Posted 27 January 2011 - 06:19 PM
Posted 12 June 2011 - 02:37 AM
Any1 just recently done 1 on a s13?
Posted 03 December 2011 - 04:25 PM
Edited by davidcanfly, 03 December 2011 - 04:25 PM.
Posted 09 May 2012 - 09:30 PM
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