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Help!.Turbo to Manifold bolts loose 

cant get them tightened
39 replies to this topic

#1 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:27 PM

My car sounds like a f**king tractor and its my daily driver!,the Turbo to Exhaust manifold nuts are loose,I got one tightened but cant get the others cause either I cant get into them or cant bend back those damn locking tabs out the way,GRRRRRR!..

Is there any way to be able to bend the locking tabs and tighten the nuts while its all still on the car!?,ive been trying for hours..........

#2 blingcommander

  • Joined:05-October 06
  • Location:Japan
  • Car:Scooty-Puff Jr.

Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:31 PM

need to pull it all off to do it properly. least then you can check the gasket is still good

#3 STR8E180

  • Joined:30-April 03
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:GTR R34 V-SPEC

Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:36 PM

As bling said u will need to remove the turbo and manifold

U can't just tighten it because u will need to make sure the gasket is not split apart because normally when the turbo comes lose the gasket will shit itself

#4 WPN-X7

  • Joined:20-November 05
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:LS1 FC vert

Posted 25 March 2012 - 07:41 PM

i had same problem on my stagea.. i removed the heatshield and managed to get to most of them with a normal spanner (used a flat head screwdriver to bend the tabs out of the way)

however the back one (the one thats a *milkshake* to get to) i used a double flex head spanner to get to.. was still a pain in the ass.

its doable to just tighten them up without removing the whole assembly. however theres a good chance the gaskets shot to.

#5 blingcommander

  • Joined:05-October 06
  • Location:Japan
  • Car:Scooty-Puff Jr.

Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:01 PM

25 you can easily do dan. no chance on an SR though

#6 WPN-X7

  • Joined:20-November 05
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:LS1 FC vert

Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:04 PM

didnt even notice he said sr haha.

thatsamybad.

#7 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:14 PM

No good guys,I managed to get at the easy 3 but the front left one cant be accessed at all.I felt at the back of the manifold and feel a loose bit of steel gasked so its fooked!,looks like it all got to come off the other thing is I noticed that oil has a been weeping out the back exhaust port on the head!!?? : WTF? though im not blowing smoke or using oil.

Im wondering if this Turbo Gasket leak is the cause of my 3 year + battle to get my car to stop badly missfiring and getting all powerless after 15 mins of driving

#8 00NDU

  • Joined:09-November 06
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:S14a

Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:16 PM

if your turbo gasket has been going for 3 years......... without being noticed?

madness.

It's not hard to remove it all. Get it out, new gasket, and back in in less than half a day (if you're a noob). Just don't f**k your threads / lines.

#9 R32GTRS

  • Joined:24-August 09
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:RB25 R32gtst

Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:36 PM

^ most people continue driving their cars for ages and ages with major issues, I bet 90% of imports on the road are running like shit.

#10 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:23 AM

Definitely remove the manifold and turbo, as everyone has already said.

I also suggest getting the following [genuine] new parts:
- Braided lines (saves your sanity)
- Turbo>dump gasket
- New rear bolts
- New rear studs/nuts
- New manifold>turbo studs/nuts

In theory, the bolts and studs can be reused, but in reality they're heat-damaged and slightly stretched. I've reused turbo bolts in the past and they quickly loosen again, and in some cases shear off when tightening, which is the last thing you want. You don't want to have to do this job multiple times, so try to get it right the first time.

Edited by pmod, 26 March 2012 - 08:24 AM.


#11 S13 Track Hack

  • Joined:12-October 08
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:S13 CA18det

Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:09 PM

do this... no more loose bolts... ever :)

Attached Image: WP_001194.jpg
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#12 samion

  • Joined:07-June 11
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx SR20DET

Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:33 PM

^^^

looks legal. lol

#13 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 26 March 2012 - 06:42 PM

Im putting this in to get fixed,im too useless to fix it and have no patience whatsoever!= Im sourcing up all the gaskets now and thinking of putting in another turbo as mine is getting on a bit now,so dont want the turbo going and having to get all taken off again

Ive dont want to have to buy bigger injectors,new ECU etc etc so im looking for a new T25 Turbo but cant seem to find one?,is there anyhere in Oz that sells ne T25's,I know everyone upgrades to a bigger Turbo but my car is a daily driver and wont be doing track work/drags etc plus I'd rather have lower end response I hate Lag!. Surely somewhere sells T25's,I see some on ebay but I dont want cheap china crap

Edited by 180SXXXX, 26 March 2012 - 06:44 PM.


#14 brent47

  • Joined:29-January 04
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:jdm 15

Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:39 PM

Taark sells new T28's.
It's the logical upgrade, T28's are average but T25's are just plain poop.

#15 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:54 PM

 brent47, on 26 March 2012 - 07:39 PM, said:

Taark sells new T28's.
It's the logical upgrade, T28's are average but T25's are just plain poop.

Yeh but then I have to fork out for a new ECU and Injectors then Tune! that coupled with paying the $450.00 Labour to get all my exhaust/Turbo Gaskets changed and fitting of the Turbo plus the cost of the new turbo ...... which is why I just wanted another T25

#16 STR8E180

  • Joined:30-April 03
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:GTR R34 V-SPEC

Posted 26 March 2012 - 07:58 PM

U don't need upgrade ecu or injectors for a t28

Also I know some one with a t25 for sale in nsw

#17 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:14 PM

 STR8E180, on 26 March 2012 - 07:58 PM, said:

U don't need upgrade ecu or injectors for a t28

Also I know some one with a t25 for sale in nsw

In my case I would think the injectors would need upgraded? I only have the standard SR20DET Redtop ones and stock ecu that has a chip installed


I know I should know this by now but what do I need to change to fit up the T28,I mean like my Dump Pipe will need changed and the oil and coolant lines are different I think??

Edited by 180SXXXX, 26 March 2012 - 08:35 PM.


#18 Higas

  • Joined:23-February 10
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:96 Zenki

Posted 26 March 2012 - 09:44 PM

Buy a set of braided lines, you shouldn't need to change your injectors if you're just fitting a T28 and I highly doubt you'd need a tune.

#19 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 26 March 2012 - 11:30 PM

I was under the impression that cause the T28 flows more than the T25 that you have to upgrade the ECU and also thought the stock redtop injectors would max out causing it to run lean,sounds like im wrong?.....I have the GKTECH Dump Pipe and allways thought that the bolt pattern from turbo to dump on the T28 was slightly different to T25 but looking on gregs GKTECH site it seems they are the same.

Are the braided lines a necessity?,I only ask because thats more $$$ again and I personally wont be fitting it all so some of my sanity remains( whats left of it)

Edited by 180SXXXX, 26 March 2012 - 11:32 PM.


#20 Higas

  • Joined:23-February 10
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:96 Zenki

Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:28 AM

 180SXXXX, on 26 March 2012 - 11:30 PM, said:

I was under the impression that cause the T28 flows more than the T25 that you have to upgrade the ECU and also thought the stock redtop injectors would max out causing it to run lean,sounds like im wrong?.....I have the GKTECH Dump Pipe and allways thought that the bolt pattern from turbo to dump on the T28 was slightly different to T25 but looking on gregs GKTECH site it seems they are the same.

Are the braided lines a necessity?,I only ask because thats more $$$ again and I personally wont be fitting it all so some of my sanity remains( whats left of it)

The dump pipe/turbo to dump manifolds are identical. I wouldn't bother using the stock hard lines at all, my stock S14 lines didn't fit the ball bearing T28 so I can guarantee that your Redtop lines won't fit one.
Your injectors will only become a bottleneck once you start running significantly more boost, from memory redtops have 370cc's which is what audm blacktops run too. I'm not an expert on your S13 ECU but you wouldn't need to replace it, at most you'd need a tune.

#21 STR8E180

  • Joined:30-April 03
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:GTR R34 V-SPEC

Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:12 AM

 180SXXXX, on 26 March 2012 - 08:14 PM, said:

 STR8E180, on 26 March 2012 - 07:58 PM, said:

U don't need upgrade ecu or injectors for a t28

Also I know some one with a t25 for sale in nsw

In my case I would think the injectors would need upgraded? I only have the standard SR20DET Redtop ones and stock ecu that has a chip installed


I know I should know this by now but what do I need to change to fit up the T28,I mean like my Dump Pipe will need changed and the oil and coolant lines are different I think??

Injectors and ecu can remain standard

U can reuse your dump pipe

U should get braided lines they are more reliable

U will need a t28 intake snout or modify your t25 intake snout to suit the t28 ( pretty easy If u can tig weld or get someone to do it for u, I charge 20 buxs )

Intercooler hot pipe will need to be modified to suit the new outlet angle

#22 S13 Track Hack

  • Joined:12-October 08
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:S13 CA18det

Posted 27 March 2012 - 04:55 AM

When I originally put a roller bearing t28 on my ca I had to drill out one hole slightly on the dump to help it fit easier. I purchased a snout and cut it short, then used a 45 degree silicone reducer/joiner to make the existing intake pipe work on the turbo. Hot pipe setup didn't change.

#23 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 27 March 2012 - 08:51 AM

Yep, all is as stated above (I currently run a bush-bearing T28).

Don't worry about a possible loss in response; the T25 and T28 are quite similar. A tune would make the T28 better than it runs on a standard S13 ECU, so you may wish to go down this path later, but it isn't terrible. Don't be afraid to just bolt it in and run it for a while.

I finally got around to installing my AEM wideband, and confirmed that my AFRs hit leaner values than I would like when transitioning from partial to full throttle in some gears, however the car drives fine and makes some power. It does however bog a bit in summer due to engine temp, which I expect to be largely caused by the erratic AFRs.

 S13 Track Hack, on 26 March 2012 - 06:09 PM, said:

do this... no more loose bolts... ever Posted Image

Haha, love it. Tracking it on a rainy day would suck though. Considered welding a 90 degree bend to the tip and expanding the cutout to suit?

I had to weld the dump to my old T25 after snapping 3 bolts in the turbine housing.
Damn sight cheaper than paying for replacement gaskets, bolt removal or helicoils.

Edited by pmod, 27 March 2012 - 08:54 AM.


#24 sr180

  • Joined:05-January 03
  • Location:Australia ACT
  • Car:Nissan 1996 180sx.

Posted 27 March 2012 - 11:06 AM

Use the S15 manifold to turbo studs, and the s15 metal gaskets. They are much improved over the s13 ones.

#25 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 27 March 2012 - 06:10 PM

I thank you guys for all the help,I'll buy some of the gear from Taark and now looking for a price on a T28( dont think taark has any T28's left?), where can you guys recomend buying a new T28 from?.

I can see trying to get the old studs out will be a f**king nightmare and labour cost will now go higher,but everyone is saying to change all those Studs so looks like I'll have to do so= I will need to make list of what studs I need and how many are required then start ordering gear right away.


When you buy a New Turbo do you get any studs on it? if not I guess I'll need

8X Exhaust Manifold Studs.
4X Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Studs.
2X Studs and 3 Bolts at the Turbo to Dump Pipe..


Also my Profec B controller is set at 13 psi,when I fit the T28 will I to turn this boost down as im running stock injectors???

Edited by 180SXXXX, 27 March 2012 - 07:29 PM.


#26 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:02 PM

Answers to help you out. Others no doubt will have good input too, this is just what I did.

 180SXXXX, on 27 March 2012 - 06:10 PM, said:

I thank you guys for all the help,I'll buy some of the gear from Taark

Good choice. Tarrick is great to deal with.

 180SXXXX, on 27 March 2012 - 06:10 PM, said:

I can see trying to get the old studs out will be a f**king nightmare and labour cost will now go higher.

Nah, stud removal is quick and easy if there aren't any breakages. Tighten 2 nuts against each other then turn the one closest to the insertion point. Takes all of 10 minutes.
My reference to cost was due to my bolts/studs having snapped clean off. Welding was my budget solution for a worthless turbo.

 180SXXXX, on 27 March 2012 - 06:10 PM, said:

When you buy a New Turbo do you get any studs on it? if not I guess I'll need
... Parts List...

Normally they come with 2 studs (at least the one's I've seen), so you just buy 3 bolts if purchasing new.
I haven't felt the need to replace manifold studs either; reused studs and all my issues have been on the turbo side of the manifold.

My suggestion is:
1x New T28-framed turbo (whatever)
4x Manifold->turbine studs
4x Manifold->turbine nuts
2x OEM manifold->turbine locktabs
3x OEM dump bolts
2x OEM dump nuts
1x OEM manifold gasket
1x OEM manifold->turbine gasket
1x OEM dump gasket
1x Braided lines (e.g. Midnightmods)
1x 3" Dump pipe if you don't already have one
1x OEM S13 intake snorkel chopped, clocked and Tigged. Powertune redid my efforts for $20.
1x OEM S13 compressor outlet pipe
1x 2" silicone 45 degree pipe (iirc it's 2" diameter)
1x OEM S15 SMIC if you don't plan to go FMIC. Just bolts in I'm told.

 180SXXXX, on 27 March 2012 - 06:10 PM, said:

Also my Profec B controller is set at 13 psi,when I fit the T28 will I to turn this boost down as im running stock injectors???

Just disable, disconnect or remove it so it runs wastegate spring pressure, which is 8psi on an OEM T28.

Edited by pmod, 27 March 2012 - 09:05 PM.


#27 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:39 PM

So I dont have to replace those 8 studs that go from head to Manifold?,I currently have 3" GKTECH Dump and GKTECH Front Mount Cooler

#28 pmod

  • Joined:13-May 10
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:180sx, 4G Prelude

Posted 28 March 2012 - 08:10 AM

 180SXXXX, on 27 March 2012 - 09:39 PM, said:

So I dont have to replace those 8 studs that go from head to Manifold?,I currently have 3" GKTECH Dump and GKTECH Front Mount Cooler

Unless they're damaged, I don't personally think they need to be replaced. They're not designed to stretch, and I've always reused mine without issue.
The turbo gets a lot hotter than the head or header side of the manifold, so the bolts and studs there are exposed to much more extreme conditions.

You're all sorted for the cooler and dump, so just get the 450 pipe and chop the hotpipe to suit. It will make sense once the turbo is in.
Be sure to bead the lip of the pipe after cutting, otherwise the hose will eventually pop off.

#29 180SXXXX

  • Joined:10-September 07
  • Location:Australia WA
  • Car:Nissan 180SX(SR20DET) and S.L.R Torana(308)

Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:45 PM

Do you have to buy a new Oil Drain tube and the Rubber Joiner if you go from T25 to T28??,Im making a list pricing all this gear up and its going to send me broke!.

popping in another T25 would be so much cheaper an easier... but the best I can come up with is one made up by Hypergear at $800.00 though i don't know if these are worthwhile??...

Edited by 180SXXXX, 28 March 2012 - 06:46 PM.


#30 STR8E180

  • Joined:30-April 03
  • Location:Australia NSW
  • Car:GTR R34 V-SPEC

Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:58 PM

 180SXXXX, on 28 March 2012 - 06:45 PM, said:

Do you have to buy a new Oil Drain tube and the Rubber Joiner if you go from T25 to T28??,Im making a list pricing all this gear up and its going to send me broke!.

popping in another T25 would be so much cheaper an easier... but the best I can come up with is one made up by Hypergear at $800.00 though i don't know if these are worthwhile??...


i dont replace studs unless they are damaged

u can reuse the T25 oil drain on a T28 turbo BUT i personally like to cut the pipe of the flange and weld it at a different angle so there is less kink in the rubber hose

this does not have to be done its just some thing i like to do
Attached Image: IMG_0815.JPG





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