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UPDATE - FINISHED - Auto Fold Side Mirrors DIY S13/180sx only. 

44 replies to this topic

#1 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 17 January 2012 - 08:13 PM

Okay I finished this!!!!!
Sorry it took so long, but it's done!!!

It's quite simple! I found another thread and followed it from there. It wasn't quite good, but that's why I took from that and put it in my own terms.
Made it simpler for everyone.

Note, if you want to do this mod, you will cancel the switch and will be able to only use the ign. Later down the track I'll figure out how to include the switch as well as the ign.

So here we go!!!!!!!!!!!!

TOOLS and Materials:

- Wire - 1.5m Black - 2m white - 3m Red. (Colors are optional, mine are 1.5m black, 2m white and 3m brown)
- Inline fuse holder
- Inline fuse (15AMP)
- Electrical tape
- 12V test light or multimeter.
- Soldering iron and solder (OPTIONAL)
- 1 Relay DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw)
- 1 Relay holder DPDT
- Heat shrink tubing (OPTIONAL)
- Pair of pliers/strippers
- Terminal connectors (OPTIONAL, Not needed really)
- Screw driver, both Phillips and flat head.
- Your head.

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Maybe I forgot something, use your brain to figure it out lol.

Step ONE:

Remove Interior pieces. You will need to remove the center console and the stereo trim.
Remove drivers side pieces. These are 3 pieces, under the steering column, and around the ign barrel.
Remove radio as well.

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See below, there are 2 screws on the center console at the front, located on the side. And 2 on the rear, where the compartment is.

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Remove the lighter socket, and the switch. You can unplug these both, Don't lose them, especially your switch!!
Use a flat head screwy and gently pry them out.

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Once your finished removing plastics it should look like this.
Be gentle with them, don't force them open, there are wires connected under the center console, unplug those.
Radio should have only 2 plugs, or 4 if you have aux cables, remove those, remove radio, put aside.

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Your ign barrel.

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Alright, that's the plastics taken care of!!
Time for the hard bit. (Piss easy)

Unplug the negative cable from the battery. (Optional, but safer. Will delete your radio memory, and reset your clock)

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STEP 2: Getting constant 12v

Next find a gap in the fire wall. I used the small plug that your bonnet latch cable runs through. Cut a hole in there, just enough for your red/brown wire to pass through.

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Tie one end of the wire somewhere near the positive terminal, feed the other end through and pull it out all the way.
Leave some slack on it so you can cut and cable tie it neatly.

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When you have pulled it out all the way inside the drivers side, get under and run it OVER everything, including steering column, and feed it inside where your radio goes.

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Like so.

Next, you can either do it the right way and get some terminal connections, or do it the dodgy way, but still works like me.
Cut the end of the brown/red wire, and expose the copper inside. You can either now add your connector to it, or splice one of the thick cables, spread some of it out and feed your cable through there.
Wrap it around and with your electrical tape, cover it up.
Should look like this, but covered in tape.

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Feed that brown wire inside the driver kick panel, and pull it out through where the radio goes.
Cut somewhere along the wire, inside where the radio sits and connect your inline fuse.
Grab the end of that, and attatch another 2 wires to it to form a Y. So the ends of your wire you have 2 feeds.
2x 12 V constant feed is now done!!!!!

Step 3: Ignition wire.

Okay, next we are going to use the white wire which connects to the ign ON.
Get your test light, or multimeter for this one.
Go back and connect the negative cable to the battery.
Test each pin (Located on the left hand side of the wheel)

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With your ign off, test all the pins, there should be one constant 12v there. Don't use that.
Switch to ign, and you should get a reading of 12V+ on your multimeter, or the light turns on on your tester.
I used the BLUE wire coming off it. Which, was wrong, but it works, you can wire it to this or the other 12v+ available.

Anyways, this step is either way. You can do it the right way and solder straight onto the pin, where the blue wire goes.
Or splice the blue wire like I have.

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Same deal as your brown wire, just split in half, DON'T CUT.
Get your WHITE wire and wrap it around it, and then tape it up.
Run it along the steering column thing, and tape/cable tie it there.
Run it the same way as you did to your brown wire.

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Step 4: Grounding.

Alrighty, this is easy.
Get your black cable, cut it in half, grab one of them, strip it, and find a solid ground point. I used the bolt that holds the brake lever together.
Wrap it around the bolt, and then bolt it back on. Simple.

Grab the other half and do the same, but on the other bolt (Don't bolt them together for some reason I decided not to LOL)
Next, cut about.. Mmmm 20cms? Of one of the grounds, and cut that in half again, and connect it to one of the ends of the grounds, so it forms a Y.
Look at pics if your a confused f**ker.

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Step 5: Wiring mirror switch wires. (ONLY 2)

This is easier then above, but if you cut the wrong one then your screwed LOL.

Okay grab the white connector that clips onto your switches.
Find the BLUE and GREEN wires.

LOOK AT THEM CAREFULLY!!!!!!!!!!
Some might look blue/green but they have 2 colors on them, you need SOLID green and SOLID blue.
Blue, green, blue, green. GET IT?
Look below.

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Cut the blue and green wire. Leave some wire from the connector for maybe if you don't like this mod and want to revert back. (Or we can use them later, for something)

Grab the ends or the wire, not the one in the connector, but the ones lose that go down. Strip them, blue and green.
Extend them by 20cms or so. Just enough to attatch to the relay.

Step 6?: Relay + Relay adaptor + wiring + yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeh.

Alright ladies and gentlemen. Follow this very close.

Grab your relay

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Grab your relay adaptor

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Make them have sex!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Next grab your switch and connect it back together.

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Almost done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There should be 8 wires in total!! If you missed any, count them all, and see which ones you missed.

1) Constant 12V (brown)
2) Constant 12V (brown)
3) First Ground (black)
4) First Ground (black)
5) Ignition 12V (white)
6) Second Ground (black)
7) MIRRORS OUT (green or brown extended)
8) MIRRORS IN (blue or brown extended)

Now.

Follow this diagram and wire it to your relay terminals. If you bought a relay connector then you don't need to solder, just unscrew, fit wire, and screw.
Makes it so simple.

Attached Image: untitled.JPG

You should be finished. Go test it out.
If it doesn't work, go check your battery, see if you forgot to connect all up.

Here's the video of them working.

Total time = 45 mins.
Total cost, around about $50.

I made the mistake by buying most of the things from super shit.
If you want to save cash, please buy from JAYCAR


Edited by Rolled Cambers, 23 January 2012 - 05:15 PM.


#2 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:17 AM

Will you still be able to use the switch to fold them in while the car is on?

So keen for this to be finished! Want it on my car.

#3 Flying180

  • Joined:29-March 05
  • Location:Australia SA

Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:16 AM

I would love to do this, so hurry up with the tech article! :P

I know with some Evo's, you can get the mirrors to autoclose by pressing the lock button the remote 3 times. I want that.

#4 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 22 January 2012 - 10:15 PM

Yeah flying, I've seen those while researching!! Pretty cool, I'd like to implement that later on when I get an alarm system. Might do instead of boot button, or horn, it'll be open/close.
But that's later when I finish this mod first. It will also probably depend on your remote system.

Sorry dudes, I got stuck, can't figure it out, but I'm getting some help!!
We will work on it next sunday, so stay tuned for some pics, and a write up!
Be patient, this will be an awesome mod!!
I'll also try and get them to fold both from ignition and the switch when needed (Sometimes need the car on but the mirrors closed to fit through alleyways when your doing suspicious shit)
Stay tuned!
Promised I'll get this finished soon or above mod can ban me haha.. ah f**k.

Edited by Rolled Cambers, 22 January 2012 - 10:17 PM.


#5 JTC

  • Joined:19-January 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13

Posted 22 January 2012 - 10:42 PM

How are the mirrors trigged? Maybe able to help.

#6 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:04 PM

I'm 100% certain there is a relay involved.
After testing out the wires from my switch I found nothing that I can hack into and use from there.
A little research on relays and I found I need to use one to cut off power to the motors.
What happens is when the motor spins either way, there is still a constant 12+V to them, then when the motor stops spinning there is still power, the relay cuts the power off automatically when there is excess current, stopping the motor from spinning thus stopping it from burning out.
Simple?
I'll work on it more my self tomorrow!

#7 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 05:19 AM

Sounds easy... Till you get to the bit where you turn the ignitions off (no more power at the key barrel) and somehow get a constant 12v to the mirrors, long enough for it to close..?

I'll be patient... Haha.

#8 Mandi

  • Joined:24-January 05
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:180 & S14a

Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:11 AM

If you need me to go through the wirin diagram for you let me know and I can point you in he right direction.

Other than that take pics n shit like you did in the first post and will turn into a really good write up

#9 JTC

  • Joined:19-January 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:50 AM

I had a quick look this morning and this is what I found out.
Mirrors closed and mirrors opened are both trigged by a 12v source and is still present even when mirrors are closed,
Attached Image: IMG_0543.JPG

Taking this you could use a spdt relay to have the mirrors auto fold in BUT the switch will become obsolete

Attached Image: relay mirrors.jpg

all you would need is a 12v line which im sure there would be one in the plug that goes into the mirror switch

but then as mentioned before this would be constantly on which im not sure how it would go power wise

Edited by JTC, 23 January 2012 - 08:55 AM.


#10 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 10:57 AM

Would having a relay running off your central locking work? Once you unlock the doors, that 12v constant gets power, and when yuu lock the doors, the relay cuts power to the original relay?

#11 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 23 January 2012 - 11:39 AM

JTC the wiring you found is correct, although a spdt won't work. I need a dpdt relay because there are extra wires that I have to put in.
One constant 12v from battery which is fused, and another for ground, and another 2 going to the ign.

Brandon, I'm not sure how your idea would work, maybe for when an alarm system is put in?

I'm going to get some wire and a relay and a fuse now and I'll work around it. Found a wiring diagram for it on the net after searching heaps!
Found it's a s13 mod the same as I want, it's just a write up with little pics, so I'll take info from there and give you more detailed info.

#12 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 12:08 PM

Looking forward to it RC! Hope it doesn't take too long to get a diagram for us! :)

#13 -traedayz-

  • Joined:20-January 08
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:01 EVO 7 GSR

Posted 23 January 2012 - 12:30 PM

 Flying180, on 22 January 2012 - 11:16 AM, said:

I would love to do this, so hurry up with the tech article! :P

I know with some Evo's, you can get the mirrors to autoclose by pressing the lock button the remote 3 times. I want that.

Have this feature on my 7 :P Press lock 3 times mirrors auto fold, press unlock 3 times mirrors auto open.

Or if your lazy like me press 3 times to autoclose then next time you jump into the car and drive off with them still closed they open up automatically usually around 1st-2nd gear/ 20-40kmph or within 100 meters of taking off.

Really cool and handy, hopefully you s13 guys/girls can get it happening (write up would be good) comon cambers mods have finger ready to pounce on delete button for you if this fails :lol: :P

#14 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 23 January 2012 - 01:37 PM

Hahaha!
I am working on it now!
Doing all the drawing work as we speak, then going to go apply it and hopefully.. It works.
Fingers crossed!!!!

#15 JTC

  • Joined:19-January 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 03:49 PM

Why do u need 2 wires to the ignition?

#16 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 03:58 PM

How much will it cost to do it?

#17 JLTS13

    does this rag smell like chloroform to you???

  • Platinum Member
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  • 2,079 posts
  • Joined:30-January 08
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:R33 4 DOOR

Posted 23 January 2012 - 04:47 PM

are you just trying to get them to fold in with ignition off? I could make a wiring diagram if needed I have done it before(a while ago i must add) let me know if stuck , I can pm some info or post it here :thumbsup:

#18 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 23 January 2012 - 05:17 PM

No need. All done.
Please follow above steps.
It's simple, easy and costs a total of $50 or under. Depending on what tools you have and if you have most materials.

If you get stuck, please feel free to ask on here and I can help anyway out.

I am sure there is an easier way, but I found this to be quite easy for me.

#19 philmak

  • Joined:23-December 04
  • Location:Australia VIC

Posted 23 January 2012 - 05:24 PM

most useful post by cambers

good write up man

#20 Brandon Christie

  • Joined:06-January 12
  • Location:Australia QLD
  • Car:1991 S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:49 PM

Just Finished wiring it all, just need to buy the relay and relay holder tomorrow.

Took me a bit longer, as I soldered every join and used heat shrink on every join. And also insteAd of cutting the blue and green wire, I spliced into them, so hopefully the switch will still work? And I mounted my fuze holder in the engine bay neatly. And wired it up to "ON" instead of "ACC", thus being you basically only turn the car onto "on" if you are going to drive.. I'm my theory haha.

Really got how-to. I'll report back tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

#21 -traedayz-

  • Joined:20-January 08
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:01 EVO 7 GSR

Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:03 PM

 philmak, on 23 January 2012 - 05:24 PM, said:

most useful post by cambers

good write up man

This..

2012 the year of cambers :lol: good job :thumbsup:

#22 Flying180

  • Joined:29-March 05
  • Location:Australia SA

Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:39 PM

Good stuff Cambers!

I removed a warn for your efforts.

#23 S15-GT

  • Joined:19-October 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:2002 S15 GT

Posted 23 January 2012 - 08:57 PM

ok for those of you who wanna use the switch in conjunction with the auto fold function!!!

where you cut the blue and green wires out of the switch I hope you left some length, so run a wire from your green wire on the relay back up to the green wire on the switch and splice together, add an extra wire from the blue wire on the relay and run up to the blue wire on the switch and splice together...
the switch will still have its power for controlling the motor as you shouldn't have touched it and the blue and green wires will now be paralleled through the switch and relay!

the switch in the neutral position will allow the relay to function for auto fold and the switch in either close or open should in theory bypass the relay (simple paralleled circuit!)

RC is totally right in what he has done and the reason for the multiple powers is to feed power to engage the relay (energize the coil) and the others is to feed power through your poles.

tip for young players!!! protect the live wire as much as possible as you dont want it to chafe otherwise it will short straight to your chassis and will potentially f**k shit up...

RC congrats on the write up very well done, glad you got it to work, bit dodgy bolting wire directly to chassis LOL, Personally I would of used terminals... but hey im a picky bastard!
As I have neither a 180 or s13 I cant try my theory though it should definitely work ( If it doesnt I shouldnt be fixing planes, haha), give it a go and if ya dont mind elaborate with pics of what ive written and make this A grade hot to thread A+ quality LOL

#24 TheApothecary

  • Joined:10-May 11
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:Forever A Charade

Posted 23 January 2012 - 09:07 PM

Cambers hide your VIN in the pictures and give your engine bay a bit of a degrease + wash :)

Awesome write up though, informative, pictures make it much easier to compare to and it works!

Does anything have to be reset or rewired if the battery dies or Can put a new one in and all will be sweet?

#25 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 23 January 2012 - 09:48 PM

 -traedayz-, on 23 January 2012 - 08:03 PM, said:

 philmak, on 23 January 2012 - 05:24 PM, said:

most useful post by cambers good write up man
This.. 2012 the year of cambers :lol: good job :thumbsup:

 Flying180, on 23 January 2012 - 08:39 PM, said:

Good stuff Cambers! I removed a warn for your efforts.

Hahaha cheers boys!
Flying you can remove all my warns if you like? :P

Beau I will try and put your side into it as well along with more pics tomorrow after work.
Haha yeah, bolt the wire, meh, couldn't be bothered, if it's solid then I'm happy, it won't move around, so it's all good (For me)
I recommend using terminals and solder for everything, but in my case, I really did not want to solder.
Cheers for your support as well!!!

Apothecary why hide the vin? People might steal the numbers??
Haha yeah engine needs a clean, maybe next year.

No the only thing that needs to be reset is your clock, and your radio channels. Apart from that nothing else is in the way. Although my radio isn't working like it was before. But that's cool.
Also the car hasn't died yet, so I think the relay is doing it's job on cutting power haha!
If the battery does die, I'll have to open everything and have a look at what's causing the problem. I doubt it will.

Edit: JTC I think your idea would actually work!! More simpler, I was tired when I was looking at the pic.
I think you could use a spdt. But I already did it. Maybe I can try it on another persons s13 lol.

Edited by Rolled Cambers, 23 January 2012 - 10:00 PM.


#26 JTC

  • Joined:19-January 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:S13

Posted 23 January 2012 - 11:45 PM

Yer I'm pretty sure my idea will work, but will try to confirm, defs would advise everyone to get wire etc from jaycar, also I think it should be fine to run accessories from the cig lighter as it is only a trigger, will be interesting to see if it affects battery life at all I doubt it though.

#27 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 24 January 2012 - 03:45 AM

Test it out, let us know how it goes!
I'll draw up a diagram of S15-GT's explanation and then test it out, if it works, then hey we have our selves a DIY extension thanks to him :)

#28 S15-GT

  • Joined:19-October 11
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:2002 S15 GT

Posted 24 January 2012 - 05:57 AM

UPDATE:
FYI - Wether you use a dpdt or spdt relay there will always be power to your mirrors motor!
Ok so if you do as I explained earlier then the use of the switch will inturn have to over come the relay ie: your mirrors are opened and relay energized keeping power there, you use the switch to close it, which will cause power to the mirror motor to both keep it open and try and close it! I recon this will kill the motor and if not and it works then as soon as you let go of the switch it will extend!

I hope that's a good enough explanation to make sence!

I'll work on it and get something that incorporates the switch and prevents power to the motor after it has driven the mirror open/closed

#29 TheApothecary

  • Joined:10-May 11
  • Location:Australia SA
  • Car:Forever A Charade

Posted 24 January 2012 - 08:21 AM

VIN & Number plates you can find where the car is located (in SA anyway), probably the same in VIC so was just saying.

#30 Rolled Cambers

  • Joined:14-July 09
  • Location:Australia VIC
  • Car:Nissan Silvia s13.

Posted 24 January 2012 - 09:02 AM

Ah okay! Might have to fix that pic up later. Thanks for the tip.

 S15-GT, on 24 January 2012 - 05:57 AM, said:

UPDATE:
FYI - Wether you use a dpdt or spdt relay there will always be power to your mirrors motor!
Ok so if you do as I explained earlier then the use of the switch will inturn have to over come the relay ie: your mirrors are opened and relay energized keeping power there, you use the switch to close it, which will cause power to the mirror motor to both keep it open and try and close it! I recon this will kill the motor and if not and it works then as soon as you let go of the switch it will extend!

I hope that's a good enough explanation to make sence!

I'll work on it and get something that incorporates the switch and prevents power to the motor after it has driven the mirror open/closed

So you haven't figured it out yet?
I'm drawing shit up now and seeing if it works, but until I test it I don't know if it will or not.





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